NEWS

Eclipse super total 8c FA by Marta Palou
Marta Palou Carol has done the FA of Eclipse super total 8c in Rodellar, which is a combination of four routes. "

Bรผgeleisen sit 8C by Stefan Scarperi
Stefan Scarperi has done his first 8C, Bรผgeleisen sit in Maltatal and it only took him four sessions. Nalle Hukkatival put it up in 2014 saying it could be the hardest thing he has done and also other repeaters have indicated that it should be a hard 8C. In 2015, he got the bronze in the Euro Bouldering Championship. In the Combined 8a ranking game, the 28-year-old is #8.

Studio Bloc Masters is the biggest bouldering competition in the world where the best compete together with the ordinary gym rat. In the qualification, there is 80 problems and your score is based on how fast you did your most difficult 20 problems. In total 161 female and 350 male participated. Semi 11.30 and final 16.00 will be live-streamed. 1. Janja Garnbret 725 - Vadim Timonov 852 2. Oriane Bertone 722 - Jakob Schubert 841 3. Lucka Rakovec 708 - Michael Piccolruaz 825 Complete qualification results: Female and Male

Excellent show and route setting in Studio Bloc Masters with a great ending as Janja Garnbret did the last boulder, which nobody had done, on her first attempt. Twenty seconds later, Vadim Timonov, made his last boulder also on his first try, moving him up to second position. The male winner was Sergei Topishko who was the only one to finish the third problem and that ascent was something extraordinary remarkable. As a matter of fact, he fell pretty much three times doing it. 1. Janja Garnbret 44 - Sergei Topishko 34 2. Chloe Caulier 24 - Vadim Timonov 34 3. Lucka Rakovec 23 - Yannick Flohe 24 From the semi result we can see that all male with their focus on Tokyo, did actually perform relatively poor in the semi. Jakob Schubert #8, Michael Piccolruaz #9, Alberto Ginรฉs #15 and Aleksei Rubtsov #16.

Blue Line 8c FA by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (15)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did an 9a in 2018, has done the FA of Blue Line 8c in Geyik bayiri. "A line bolted by Mumin Karabas instead of Drop city (8c). Did it 3rd go, maybe 8c+. The crux is a boulder problem going through 9 mono crimps on a small overhang with approx. 7b+/c starting after the first pitch 6c+." The 15-year-old will stay in Turkey for one month with his parents. The last years they have been doing road trips like this 2 - 3 months a year. He has also started doing IFSC comps and last year he was #11 in bouldering and #17 in Lead in the Youth World Championship. "I've been homeschooling since the first grade, I only visited school for some small parts, starting with 5th grade, which could count as 2 years overall. My parents are working in IT, so they are working at home. I wanted to compete in the European cups, but since corona virus is rising up, we are thinking about rock climbing this year."

Mazawattee 8c+ by Mel Janse van Rensburg (18)
Mel Janse van Rensburg has done his first 8c+ after 14 days of projecting, Mazawattee in Montagu. Two years ago he did the second ascent of an 8c+ which he and others later have called 8c. "Mazawattee has been an incredible journey and to finally be able to do it is such an amazing feeling. Through this process I learnt a lot about, not only climbing, but also myself and the mental aspect of climbing, which will hopefully help me with my future projects. . Mazawattee is one of the best and definitely the hardest route I've done. 25m of steep, sustained sandstone climbing, what more could one ask for?"

New York Times has published a very long article about Adam Ondra. โ€œMy strategy is, no matter what, to win in lead,โ€ Ondra said. โ€œWhich gives me almost certainly fourth, and most certainly third. I am quite aware that I am very likely the last in speed. And I have to know that, and not be disappointed in that.โ€

Martina Demmel (18) #2 in the onsight ranking game
Martina Demmel, who started climbing in 2017 and within 15 months had onsighted her first 7c, has during the last three weeks done seven routes 8a+ to 8b+ second go or onsight. Her grade pyramid has a solid base on onsights up to 8b (and flashes in bouldering) so it is just a matter of time until she will push harder also in redpoint. In the 8a ranking game, the former skiracer is #2 in the onsight ranking game. An interview is coming up. On the pic by Ed Ru the 18-year-old is onsighting Meconi in Margalef. "The best tufa line I've ever done! Stemming, cuddling, battling, pinching and dancing around these two tufas;) kinda strange but a must-do!"