NEWS

Sierra Madre 8C by Michael Piccolruaz
Michael Piccolruaz has done his second 8C, Sierra Madre in Zillertal. "Probably the happiest I've ever been after topping out a Boulder! Finally, it happened. This means a lot to me! Cruising through the lower part and falling on those last 2 moves over and over again made this such a crazy mental battle. But with the right conditions, shape, skin, people around me to distract me during the failed attempts, it just had to happen. Absolute king line! Props to Flo (Schmalzl) for establishing this beast." The Italian is from Val Gardena and studies in Innsbruck. "I could get home but until two days it was better to stay in Innsbruck cause I could go outside climbing. Now I still have to figure out whether it is better to get back home..."

Julia Chanourdie 9a+ interview
Fanatic Climbing has made an interview in regards to julia Chanouride doing Supercrackinette 9a+. She has qualified to Tokyo says climbing even harder routes might be possible. (c) Laura Michelard Do you think you have reached your limits? No, I donโ€™t think this route represents the limit of my abilities. Having successfully clipped these anchors just makes me want to go see further. However, for now, Iโ€™m simply itching to go back to Saint Leger and climb all the easier superb routes at the Praniania crag.

Power training in quarantine
In order to train at home you can train on any wodden rung over a door. Recruitement training can be done several times per day for the advanced climbers. If you have just begun climbing you should instead focus on doing pull-ups. Other things to do if you are in quarantine is, of course, stretching which for most of us is the fastest way to progress.

The Game 8C by Zach Galla (19)
Zach Galla, who recently was very close to make it to Tokyo, has had some good days outdoors doing two 8B+' and The Game in Boulder Canyon. "I was bummed about the Pan Ams but I knew that not qualifying for the Olympics would give me an opportunity to go back and finish it off. Third day this trip! Hardest boulder to date and also my longest project. Going to focus on rock climbing for the foreseeable future. Maybe a few lower pressure comps but I need a break from them for a bit."

In Italy and Spain it is not allowed to go out rock climbing. The French federation has said that rock climbing should be limited. The last weekend it was more climbers than normal in Fontainebleau. Different countries have different regulations and there is not a consensus on what is the best practice. From a personal perspective, I think that as long as you can limit the contact with others, I do not see any problem going out walking or rock climbing. I totally understand that it might be the best choice, at the current stage, in some countries or places to just stay at home but in the longer run it is good to exercise and be out in the nature.

Dreamtime 8C by Carlo Traversi
Carlo Traversi, who did his first 8C in 2011, has done his eight, Dreamtime in Cresciano. (c) Mary Mecklenburg "Dream come true. The very best boulder imaginable and something I've wanted to do since I started climbing. Bummed to be cutting the trip short, but at least the last ditch effort before heading to the airport paid off. Plenty more to do around here. Be back when the world is out of crisis mode." More comments on his Insta.

Primitivo 8C by Daniel Woods
Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he some days ago did Jimmy Webbs, Primitivo 8C in Valle Bavona. Kevin Takashi Smith "We setup the lights and pads, played some rage against the machine (guerrilla radio), and I fired the line first try. It began to start pissin rain as I topped out, so Id say that the timing was perfect. Sucha stunner to session on! PRIMITIVO... the best wine."

Starting from Monday morning, you will not be allowed to leave your house in Spain, if not buying food and go to work. In practice, this means that they and their tourists will not be allowed to climb. Already today, it was forbidden to go climbing in Margalef and Siurana. In Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi says that since Friday the rules have changed and are now more strict. You are not any longer allowed to go out rock climbing.

15 March 2020

CWIF Finals

1. Molly Thompson-Smith 33 - Yoshiyuki Ogata 23 2. Holly Toothill 24- Jan Hojer 22 3. Brooke Raboutou 23 - Nathaniel Coleman 22