NEWS

Liquid Nails 8B+ by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni has done his tenth 8B+ FA, Liquid Nails in Brione. (c) Kevin Takashi Smith "New climb in Brione starting on Ganymede and climbing all the way into the end of on Frogger! Took me one day to figure out the moves and then did it second try on the second day. The crux consists on grabbing into two small holds with a huge heel hook, making the climb high percentage but really crimpy and condition dependent".

Jakob Schubert quarantine training
How has the Coronavirus affected your daily climbing life? Of course, itโ€™s a bit difficult to not go anywhere, especially since the weather is so amazing right now here in Innsbruck, Tyrol. But at least I have a nice garden where I can still enjoy the sun and fresh air. We already installed our beastmaker outside with some ropes since it couldnโ€™t hold the walls inside anymore. We broke it down half a year ago, so we had to be creative to mount the beast maker outside. By now we have two hang boards outside, so everyday we do a couple things out here. What is really cool is that Iโ€™m living together with Michael Piccolruaz, a South Tyrolean who has a good chance to become an Olympian as well, so weโ€™re training together and itโ€™s always easier if youโ€™re two. Itโ€™s way more motivating and fun. Iโ€™m also trying to use the time to work on some weaknesses like mobility and flexibility, so Iโ€™m stretching and I do mobilization exercises, but to be honest, I always hated these parts of the training. Iโ€™ve always been the person whoโ€™s super psyched and motived to climb as much as possible but things like stretching and hang boarding Iโ€™ve never really enjoyed that much, so itโ€™s not the easiest for me. I definitely try and put the effort in and take this opportunity to grow as a person and work on the things I donโ€™t like as much. Other than that Iโ€™m lucky that also my girlfriend is at my place so I get to spend time with her. Besides climbing I have a second passion, online gaming, and itโ€™s a good time to connect with some friends and play some games.

Suspiro 9a FA by Rafa Fanega (45)
Rafa Fanega, who started climbing 29 years ago, has done his first 9a with the FA of Suspiro in El Chorro. The 163 cm tall did his first, out of ten 8c+', six years ago when he was 39 years old. (c) Ivรกn Sabo Rafa says he has been trying the route for two years but not regularly as he also was doing other routes as well as equipping new ones. He explains that it is the love for climbing and putting up routes that are the reason for him continuing to progress. It should be mentioned that the ascent was done one week ago. Rock climbing is no longer allowed in Spain since this Monday.

IFSC informs that also the Combined Championships in Cape Town and Sydney are postponed due to the Coronavirus. In the latest communique it is said that the last spots to Tokyo might be based on historical results. "1. All quota places that have already been allocated to date remain allocated to the NOCs and athletes that obtained them. 2. The possibility remains to use existing and scheduled qualification events, wherever these still have fair access for all athletes and teams. 3. All necessary adaptations to qualification systems and all allocation of remaining places will be: a) based on on-field results (e.g. IF ranking or historical results); and b) reflect where possible the existing principles of the respective qualification systems (e.g. use of rankings or continental/regional specific event results)."

Sierra Madre 8C by Michael Piccolruaz
Michael Piccolruaz has done his second 8C, Sierra Madre in Zillertal. "Probably the happiest I've ever been after topping out a Boulder! Finally, it happened. This means a lot to me! Cruising through the lower part and falling on those last 2 moves over and over again made this such a crazy mental battle. But with the right conditions, shape, skin, people around me to distract me during the failed attempts, it just had to happen. Absolute king line! Props to Flo (Schmalzl) for establishing this beast." The Italian is from Val Gardena and studies in Innsbruck. "I could get home but until two days it was better to stay in Innsbruck cause I could go outside climbing. Now I still have to figure out whether it is better to get back home..."

Julia Chanourdie 9a+ interview
Fanatic Climbing has made an interview in regards to julia Chanouride doing Supercrackinette 9a+. She has qualified to Tokyo says climbing even harder routes might be possible. (c) Laura Michelard Do you think you have reached your limits? No, I donโ€™t think this route represents the limit of my abilities. Having successfully clipped these anchors just makes me want to go see further. However, for now, Iโ€™m simply itching to go back to Saint Leger and climb all the easier superb routes at the Praniania crag.

Power training in quarantine
In order to train at home you can train on any wodden rung over a door. Recruitement training can be done several times per day for the advanced climbers. If you have just begun climbing you should instead focus on doing pull-ups. Other things to do if you are in quarantine is, of course, stretching which for most of us is the fastest way to progress.

The Game 8C by Zach Galla (19)
Zach Galla, who recently was very close to make it to Tokyo, has had some good days outdoors doing two 8B+' and The Game in Boulder Canyon. "I was bummed about the Pan Ams but I knew that not qualifying for the Olympics would give me an opportunity to go back and finish it off. Third day this trip! Hardest boulder to date and also my longest project. Going to focus on rock climbing for the foreseeable future. Maybe a few lower pressure comps but I need a break from them for a bit."