NEWS

COVID-19 Risk Mitigation in Climbing Gyms โ€“ Setting up a European Strategy
Together with a group of influential leaders and experts within the indoor climbing industry, Vertical-Life has decided to draw up a strategy outline that is intended to be the basis for gyms to safely transition from the current lockdown. Although there are different, country-specific degrees of lockdown, it can be estimated that sports facilities throughout Europe, and especially indoor sports facilities, should be prepared for being subjected to even longer periods of closure. The goal must be drawing up a strategic plan and workable solutions that will make it easier for the national authorities to evaluate the reopening of climbing gyms. Read the first outline for a strategic plan of action here. Weโ€™re open to any feedback, questions and input!

Poison the Well 8C+ and Roadkill 8C by James Webb
James Webb has posted two second ascents from last month in Ticino. Poison the Well 8C+ in Brione put up by Giuliano Cameroni and Roadkill 8C in Valle Bavona put up by Shawn Raboutou. In total, James has now done five 8C+' and 20 8C' out of which 2 + 8 just the last 12 months. Daniel Woods is #1 in this ranking with close to 30 boulders 8C and harder. "Covid has definitely kept me from climbing. I've been doing some hangboard workouts and now I'm in the process of building a Kilterboard on the back porch." On Insta, (c) Kevin Takahashi Smith, James has some further comments on the Covid-19 situation. "After putting in a good amount of effort last season it felt so damn good to come back and finish it up. Huge fist bump to my amico @giuliano_cameroni for establishing this test piece. Giul has always been one of the best climbers Iโ€™ve ever met, and his drive and motivation towards pushing the limit of our sport is something I respect so much. Cheers homie, youโ€™re a legend."

Stรถhr shares her story from bouldering comps to alpinism
"A few years ago, I accompanied Kilian on his projects to climb "Hotel Supramonte" in Sardinia and "Delicatessen" in Corsica. After we returned back home, I noticed that these big walls left a big impression on me. I wanted to find out if I could climb such a big wall. Physically, I trusted myself, but I also have great respect for the height and exposed character of huge rock faces. My mental skills, which I've been able to use so well in competitions, seem worthless when dangling 100 metres above the ground. As a climber, I set myself a goal, I wanted to become more versatile. I wanted to be so bold as to tackle a long, high and steep project, and the route I chose is called "Ali Baba" - which is located in the Maritime Alps in France. This route would push my limits, as it has a grade of 8a+ in difficulty and a total of 8 pitches in length (around 250 metres). My goal meant that I would be breaking new ground in every sense: from short, powerful boulders to a long and steep multi pitch routeโ€ฆโ€ Full story at Salewa.com

Puman climbs like normal in Sweden
Hannes Puman, #8 in the Lead World Championship in 2019, was preparing for the upcoming competitions including the Olympic qualification in Moscow when everything was canceled due to Convid-19. As there are very few restrictions in Sweden he climbs almost like normal besides having had time to do some more outdoor climbing. On the picture by (c) Stefan Droguet, Hannes is flashing a 7b+ trad in Bohuslรคn. "Such a good feeling fighting with the jams as you place trad gear. So please describe how you have been climbing and training the last month? Have you made any precautions due to Covid-19? As there are no competitions and very good weather lately, I have climbing more outdoors than normal a mix of boulder, sport and trad. Indoors, there are less climbers and I use liquid chalk in order to reduce the risk of catching/spreading the virus. How do you plan to train and climb in the coming weeks? I will continue to train hard indoors. I do some double sessions indoors and sometimes I combine it with outdoors. I prepare to be in best possible shape in July. I like to train and I benefit from it even if there will be no comps this summer. If the weather is good I will take the possibility to continue to climb outside. There are just endless trad challenges waiting for me. This is what makes climbing so much fun. April 8 at 21.00, The Schnitzel Show #3 Hannes Puman

IFSC has previously said that no World Cups will take place prior to June 30. Now they have also added a 60 days respite. At the latest May 1, IFSC will confirm World Cups scheduled for July and June 1 for August etc. "To allow athletes, officials and organisers to prepare in the best possible way, competitions scheduled on a determined month will have to be confirmed with a 60-days notice."