NEWS

26 April 2020

The Why Knot Story

The Way of the Postman 8c by Stefan Wulf (49)
Stefan Wulf has done the FA of The Way of the Postman 8c in Kungshamn. "Since the virus broke out I've had more time to train hard and to work my long time projects. This was one of them a route close to my house near Kungshamn. Solid Bohuslรคn rock with a beautiful setting right by the ocean. The route is my style of climbing. Not that steep but technical, crimpy and powerful with precision footwork. It took me about 20 tries over 2 years. And in the end, persistence wins!" (c) Petter Ulmert The 49-year-old is enjoying all disciplines including big wall in Yosemite as well as bouldering up to 8A and trad up to 8b. His next project is an 8b+ trad FA which he has been working for 2-3 years now.

IFSC reports that the three World Cups in Villars, Chamonix and Briancon scheduled to take place in July have been postponed. "According to the plan released on April 6, a decision about the IFSC Youth World Championships in Voronezh (RUS) โ€“ the only IFSC competition provisionally scheduled in August โ€“is due to be taken within June 1st."

Adam Ondra has done the first repeat of Martin Stranik's Iceberg 8C in Moravskรฝ kras. The previous day he did one 8B+ and two 8B's in Ostas. The Czech Republic coronavirus numbers, like those in most of central Europe, are much lower than those further west. This week, some of the restrictions were lifted.

Black Label 8c+ (9a) and Space Oddity 8c+ by Moritz Welt (18)
Moritz Welt has done Black Label in Frankenjura logging the 9a as 8c+. "8c+/9a, a few sessions over the last years, two more this year." Three weeks ago, the 18-year-old did the FA of Space Oddity 8c+ in Frankenjura. The picture is from last year when he projected it. "At the moment climbing here in Frankenjura is allowed, but only with one contact person and closest family. So we are not able to meet a lot of people at the moment or go in groups. I also try to prevent injuries by not taking any risk. When I did Black Label I was only there with my dad who belayed me. Due to the restrictions, there couldn't be any photographer to take pictures."

From different locations in Sweden, it has been reported that there never has been so many climbers outdoors and the same goes for sales. Both shops and some gyms report records in sales. Furthermore, climbing courses both indoor and outdoor are booked and the whole rock climbing scene is booming. It seems that as there is limited access to other sports, many gym climbers have started to focus also on rock climbing. The only restriction affecting climbing in Sweden is that you should not travel in between regions and keep social distancing.

Nobody knows how Covid-19 will affect the globe and when it will be over. Here are speculations for three scenarios of how the climbing scene will look like the coming year. What do you think? Optimistic: (IFSC has now postponed July WC's IFSC still hopes that the Lead World Cup will start in Villars in Switzerland 3/7. This can only happen if the pandemic is over in 30 days and very quickly all gyms around the globe will be open. At the same time, the travel restrictions must be cut for all countries. This would also mean that we can start for summer climbing trips abroad. Neutral: Climbing gyms will be open this summer with some restrictions. No restrictions when it comes to rock climbing in your region and you are allowed to travel in between some countries starting from the autumn. Starting from 2021, everything will go back to normal and the World Cup will begin in the spring. Negative: Another three months delay compared to the neutral scenario. Tokyo Olympics at risk. In the long run, in any case, there will be a boom for outdoor sports including climbing and local exploration. Possibly, there will be development of easier routes and bouldering, via Ferrata and possibly hiking with rappel stations, etc. At the same time, there will also be a boom for outdoor climbing gyms, especially in areas with poor outdoor possibilities.

Moonlander 8A+ by Matilda Sรถderlund
Matilda Sรถderlund, #6 in the Lead World Championship in 2012, reports on Insta that she has done Moonlander assist 8A+ in Nockeby near Stockholm. (c) barabells "I'm grateful for the opportunity to still be climbing outside and to (finally) discover the climbing (especially the bouldering) in my home area."