NEWS

8a.nu Launch Announcement
Over the past several years weโ€™ve been working hard on the complete redesign of 8a. In addition to the updated interface, weโ€™ve spent an incredible amount of time migrating and improving the existing data to ensure the site maintains its legacy and as a platform is able to grow and continue to improve.

Weโ€™re so glad to finally share the newly transformed site and are eager for it to continue documenting historical moments in the climbing community for many years to come. With the new mobile-friendly interface, you can now stay up-to-date when youโ€™re at the crag and on the move. Search, explore and filter with ease and enjoy the upgraded logbook which offers unique visualisation of your climbing data.

Please note the site will be temporarily down this evening for up to 24 hours while we complete the final migration. If you visit the site during the downtime you should be redirected to our holding page where you can check out a series of interactive charts and graphs documenting the history of climbing using 8a data.

If you have questions or issues with the new site, please reach out to our support desk or leave us some feedback. As always, weโ€™re excited to continue improving the experience for all of you. Special thanks to all of our beta testers who provided great feedback for transforming 8a into what it is today!

Melissa Le Nevรฉ has done Action Directe 9a
Melissa Le Nevรฉ reports on Insta that she has done Action Directe 9a in Frankenjura. This must be considered as one of the most groundbreaking ascents in female rock climbing. More info to come. (c) Fabi Buhl

AD was put up by Wolfgang Gullich in 1991 and most consider it as the first 9a in the world. It has been repeated by some 20 male before but during the last few years more and more seldom. As it stands AD should be considered a hard bench mark 9a.

Melissa is one of the best multi-discipline climber having also done 8B+ boulder, 8b+ MP. The 30-year-old finished her competition career in 2016 being #3 in the Boulder World Cup. Lately she has started up a work as a trainer and currently, she trains some high profile climbers like Matilda Sรถderlund.

La Mola mola 9a by Samuel Ometz
Samuel Ometz has done the FA of La Mola mola 9a in Plamproz. (c) Rรฉmi Degenne

"I tried for around 5-6 sessions between summer 18 and spring 19 but struggled to find belayers to do close sessions. I focussed on it this spring (since may 1st we can climb in Switzerland) and needed another 7 sessions to complete it I think."

How could you train during the lockdown? I just climbed on my home wall, mixing short boulders and power endurance. Also some weighted pull-ups, rings, and core. It's also a good time to do stuff like stretching/mobility training that I never find time to do normally.

Robin Erbesfield-Raboutou, the very best female competition climber in the early 90'ies who did her first 8c at age 49, reports on Insta that she has done Just another traverse 8A in Flagstaff.

So how were you able to stay fit during the lockdown?
Iโ€™m working less so I have more time to train/climb.

Robin runs the ABC Kids Climbing having coached many of the best in the USA like; Emily Harrington, Margo Hayes, Colin Duffy, Natalia Grossman beside her children Brooke and Shawn.

Alex Puccio about to set yet a new standard
Alex Puccio, who just did Super Low Chimichanga Right 8B+, (c) Robin O'Leary, has done two 8A+'; A New Hope and Mandelorian Sit. "Psyched to have sent these 2 amazing V12's today! Faus gets all the credit for putting the time in and finding these boulders!!! :)"

During the last week, Alex has also done four 8B's, another two 8A+' and flashed Princess Leia 8A in Pine Cliff. In total, the runner up in the World Championship in 2014 who has had several bad injuries, done 209 boulders 8A and harder including six 8B+'. This means, the 157 cm tall, has by far the most impressive female boulder tick list.

You are about setting a new standard. How is that possible? How were you able to train during the lockdown?
Donโ€™t have a home wall, just a hang board and some things around the apartment, but just trying to get outside safely. I have always felt strongest from just climbing outside. I do cardio as in running outside and hikes if I am not hiking far for climbing. I also do push-ups, theraband exercises, IYTโ€™s and stretch daily to stay healthy.
But really rock is training I guess. My fingers get WAY stronger outside. I think my stamina might go down a bit since you are usually trying something harder for you so you will give an attempt then rest normally.

Brooke Raboutou, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, reports on Insta that she has done two 8B's; Chimichanga and Wheel of Fortune.

Two 8c's 2nd go by Laura Rogora (19)
Laura Rogora, qualified for the Olympics, reports on Insta that she has done two 8c's second go, Riflessi and Terra Piatta in Arco. Alfredo Webber She did her first 9a in 2015, at age 14, and the same year she won her first Euro Cup. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 9 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder which is most out of all females. Last year she won both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship. Laura has moved to Trento together with her sister and during the five weeks, she was not able to do a single climbing move. Instead, she could only do pullups and abs. The only way to work the endurance was to do pull-ups with eight seconds lock off, "until you die". The maximum was ten pull-ups for 80 seconds on a small edge. In total she did train like 15 hours a week.

10 Dec African - South Africa 10 Dec Asian - Xiamen in China 19 Dec Oceania in Sydney The European Championship is scheduled to start on 1 October in Moscow. If these Championships will be canceled, Jernej Kruder, Ievgenia Kazbekova, Jongwon Chon, and Chaehyon Seo would get European and Asian tickets. Furthermore, from Oceania and Africa, Harrison Campbell, Oceania Mackenzie, Curtis Calrin, and Rachelle De Charmoy will make it.

Life for a quarantined climber is pain in the backside or how not to go crazy from it
ADVERTORIAL: The word corona has currently become the most famous word in the world! Everyone knows it and it wonโ€™t disappear from history that easily. Each of us is going through a personal crisis both at work and in normal life. A lot of things have changed and life is not as it used to be. But one day itโ€™ll all end, and we will function normally again. I won't have a face mask rash and I'll even be able to buy a ticket to Spain. More info on MyTendoncom.

Les Fakirs 9a FA by Loic Zehani (18)
Loic Zehani, who did his first 9b last year, has done his 15th 9A by the FA of Les Fakirs in Orgon. "In France the lockdown lasted 2 months. Since may 11 we are allowed to move around our house within a radius of 100 kilometers. We were able to do a lot of campus boarding and we were lucky to have a natural boulder with many holds located just 500 meters to my home. We made resistance circuits. So the recovery was not really a recovery. "Les fakirs" is a stamina overhanging route of 32 movements. After that, you have a rest and you finish in a nice and fingery 8a+. It's not all natural but it's a very nice line. It took me about 10 tries. The first part was bolted by my father and the second part by Thomas Sandri.