Alex Puccio, who just did Super Low Chimichanga Right 8B+, (c) Robin O'Leary, has done two 8A+'; A New Hope and Mandelorian Sit. "Psyched to have sent these 2 amazing V12's today! Faus gets all the credit for putting the time in and finding these boulders!!! :)"

During the last week, Alex has also done four 8B's, another two 8A+' and flashed Princess Leia 8A in Pine Cliff. In total, the runner up in the World Championship in 2014 who has had several bad injuries, done 209 boulders 8A and harder including six 8B+'. This means, the 157 cm tall, has by far the most impressive female boulder tick list.

You are about setting a new standard. How is that possible? How were you able to train during the lockdown?
Don’t have a home wall, just a hang board and some things around the apartment, but just trying to get outside safely. I have always felt strongest from just climbing outside. I do cardio as in running outside and hikes if I am not hiking far for climbing. I also do push-ups, theraband exercises, IYT’s and stretch daily to stay healthy.
But really rock is training I guess. My fingers get WAY stronger outside. I think my stamina might go down a bit since you are usually trying something harder for you so you will give an attempt then rest normally.

Brooke Raboutou, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, reports on Insta that she has done two 8B's; Chimichanga and Wheel of Fortune.

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Ett inlägg delat av Brooke Raboutou (@brookeclimbs) 14 Maj 2020 kl. 6:35 PDT

Laura Rogora, qualified for the Olympics, reports on Insta that she has done two 8c's second go, Riflessi and Terra Piatta in Arco. Alfredo Webber She did her first 9a in 2015, at age 14, and the same year she won her first Euro Cup. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 9 routes graded 8c+/9a or harder which is most out of all females. Last year she won both Lead and Boulder in the Youth World Championship. Laura has moved to Trento together with her sister and during the five weeks, she was not able to do a single climbing move. Instead, she could only do pullups and abs. The only way to work the endurance was to do pull-ups with eight seconds lock off, "until you die". The maximum was ten pull-ups for 80 seconds on a small edge. In total she did train like 15 hours a week.

10 Dec African - South Africa 10 Dec Asian - Xiamen in China 19 Dec Oceania in Sydney The European Championship is scheduled to start on 1 October in Moscow. If these Championships will be canceled, Jernej Kruder, Ievgenia Kazbekova, Jongwon Chon, and Chaehyon Seo would get European and Asian tickets. Furthermore, from Oceania and Africa, Harrison Campbell, Oceania Mackenzie, Curtis Calrin, and Rachelle De Charmoy will make it.

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Loic Zehani, who did his first 9b last year, has done his 15th 9A by the FA of Les Fakirs in Orgon. "In France the lockdown lasted 2 months. Since may 11 we are allowed to move around our house within a radius of 100 kilometers. We were able to do a lot of campus boarding and we were lucky to have a natural boulder with many holds located just 500 meters to my home. We made resistance circuits. So the recovery was not really a recovery. "Les fakirs" is a stamina overhanging route of 32 movements. After that, you have a rest and you finish in a nice and fingery 8a+. It's not all natural but it's a very nice line. It took me about 10 tries. The first part was bolted by my father and the second part by Thomas Sandri.

Oriane and Max Bertone, from Reunion outside Madagascar, were in Paris for the French Youth Championship when the lockdown started. After 60 days in quarantine they have been able to visit Fontainbleau again and quickly done five 8A's each. It should be mentioned that this includes Max doing A Lay's Blaise assis which he suggest a personal down grade to 8A+. Their father Stefano comments, "The whether is incredible in Font. Cold and dry. Boulders seem so easy!" Oriane has the last year done 18 boulders 8A to 8B including one flash and she is #3 in the female ranking game. Max has done 18 boulders 8A to 8A+ and he is #14 among the juniors up to 19 years old, although just being 13.

In most sports, curse and obscenity screaming are considered bad behavior and you could actually get peneltied doing it. It is the same in competition climbing where you get a yellow card for cursing. However, outdoors it seems it is getting more popular to curse after falling. Talking to many landowners and neighbours over the years it seems the thing they get most upset of is hearing “P-y” over and over again. In Göteborg, one crag has just been shut down because of the various bad behaviour of climbers.