Katie Lamb has done her sixth 8A+, Element Of Surprise in just one session as well as her first 8B, Nuthin but sunshine both in RMNP. Previously in 2020, she has also done seven 8A's and the 22-year-old is #7 in the ranking game, however, counting only last month, she is #1.

"My battle with Nuthin But Sunshine (8B) began deep in the pit, getting schraged on the first move. Then with the help of my squad of life list friends, I found a New Foot and had a New Hope that enabled me to climb free to the top. Got in the lake, Element of Surprise (8A+, crimpy, athletic, fun!) was the icing on top of the cake of the lake. I owe it to my squad for supporting me in the pit and lapping up my tears." So how can you be in the best shape of your life so shortly after the lockdown?
During the lockdown, I was not training my physical strength, only mind workouts. Now I am only climbing on the rock because the gyms are closed. On rock, I can make my fingers strongest, my arms pumpest, and my mind fortified with knowledge. Climbing is a game of learning : )

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 8 and had good success as a child, climbing 5.14 when I was 15. But I always dreamed a truth of climbing 8B boulder.

Update: Yesterday she did her seventh 8A+, Riddles in the Park in RMNP.

Jose Luis Palao, who did the FA of Mona Lisa integral 9a+ in Rodellar two weeks ago, has done the first repeat of Jonathan Flor's 60 meters Apocalipsis de la Gioconda in Rodellar thinking it is also 9a+. Jose Luis bolted and cleaned the whole line during some 15 sessions and "Yes, my projects are always open." In total, he has bolted some 300 routes. (c) Jonathan Flor

Last year I made his first pitch and bolted also the extension but I was very far from being able to join them. When I came back this season after doing "Mona Lisa integral" I was very used to the wall and to this style of routes and in about four days I made it.

Alex Puccio has done Phallus 8A+ in Boulder, meaning she has done ten 8A+ and harder since last month. "Nice boulder! Maybe a little soft for V12 but a good climb. I did the 1 move higher start back in 2013 and don’t really know why I never tried the slightly lower start. Lol!"

The picture is from A New Hope 8A+ which, the runner-up in the World Champion in 2014, just published a video from on her Insta. Alex is #1, as she has been more or less the last seven years, in the 8a ranking game and in total, she has done 112 boulders 8A+ and harder.

Alex Chabot, 21 times World Cup winner in the 2000's before he stopped competing in 2007, has done Moksha 9a in Pic St Loup in just 24 hours. In the last week or so he has also onsighted two 8b+' as well as done one 8c+. He won the French Championship for six years straight but was later not allowed to participate due to not wanting to, "take part in a masquerade (wearing logos) in order to satisfy the powerful federation." After he finished competitions, he focused on Alpinism and got his mountain guide diploma. The 38-year-old has now done four 9a's including his first one in 2004. (c) Mélanie Cannac

"Today I have freedom and independence which makes me want to climb a lot more. I’ve been training a lot in the recent months! and my entourage of friends were very supportive!" Here is an old 8a interview where you can get a feeling for his ideologic open mindset. More comments on Fanatic Climbing

Adam Ondra is well known for climbing faster than all other top climbers. By moving faster, he saves energy and can reach higher. On the other hand, climbing faster means a higher risk for not finding the best beta.

Meanwhile Ondra has adapted to fast climbing also on his hardest routes after like 15 years of training, it is preferable to start practicing on very easy routes as you warm up. This will mean you set a new natural pace which can be used throughout the whole session.

Furthermore, speed will increase the challenge and also easier routes will be more fun to climb. In the end, what we all need is some very fast moves when you are pushing through the last moves of the crux or near the anchor when the tank is running empty.

Tommy Caldwell put up Kryptonite in the Fortress as the first 9a in USA in 1999. Now Margo Hayes and Paige Claassen have made the first and second female ascent of the 40+ meter endurance route, projecting it down after six and seven days respectively. Margo has previously made the only female ascent of three classical 9a+'; Biographie, La Rambla and Papichulo. For Paige, Kryptonite was her third 9a. Interestingly, Paige says it has become harder due to a hold broken off at the same time Margo says she is unsure if it is 8c+ or 9a, even post-break. Source; R & I

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Alex Garriga, who previoulsy has done ten 9a's and one 9a+, seems to be back in great shape after the lockdown having done Circo Ibérico 9a/+ in Cuenca. (c) Mario Martinez Munoz

The 22-year-old reports also on his Insta that he has done two 8c+/9a FA's in Cuenca; Copadrina and Marillion where the latter goes through a 20 meter roof forcing him to do many one-arm pull-ups, as shown in the video.
How can you explain being in so good shape after the lockdown?

I trained a lot during the quarantine. I was not allowed to leave my home. I built a small climbing wall and a crimp board at home and TRX. I trained like seven hours a day and rested only after four days. It was like two months of hard training at home and one month of outdoor bouldering before getting back on the rope.