Running starts have been part of the competition scene but it has never really taken off outdoors. The parkour world record in wall running is 4 meters so you could just imagine what such specialists could do putting several pads in a row and just wall run up some 8A slabs. In practice, taking two steps back and go for a dynamic jump start might be a possibility to avoid some start cruxes. On the other hand, such starts raise some ethical questions as some will not call wall running ascents as bouldering but instead parkour. Furthermore, in reality, when it comes to especially sandstone and limestone, the shoes must be absolutely clean as otherwise such footholds could quickly become polished.

Jan Hojer, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has during the last few days done three 8c+' as well as one 8c in Frankenjura; I bleed back, Hattori Hanzo, Madonna 2nd go and Lake District, 2nd go. (c) Jan Novak

How was it possible to do all those routes so quickly and what about the WC’s in 2020?
I felt in good shape after the lockdown and took advantage of all the free time I had. None of the routes I did so far felt too close to my limit and as much as I enjoy climbing on different routes every day, I’m starting to feel like I could try something harder soon. I think I might compete in Briancon, mainly because I have a few routes nearby that I’d like to climb but I won’t be competing in Asia or America.

The easiest and the fastest way, for most of us, to improve as a climber is to start to train your "fear-of-falling". At the same time, we spend hundreds of hours training our muscles, very few spend an hour training and practicing falling. If you during your warm-up also include your mental strength, by doing some mini-falls, which could be on top rope in the beginning, you will quickly become a better climber. Once you skip this routine your mental fear of falling strength will deteriorate. At the same time, it should be mentioned that I have never come across an adult climber who was afraid of heights and then was cured of this (wonderful) disease and later could go for long run-outs without hesitating.

A good opportunity with practicing falling is that your belay partner improves the technique and will learn how to give soft falls. Remember that the belayer should always opt for soft falls when there is no risk for a ground fall. This means that heavier belayers should bend the knees or move out a couple of meters from the wall in order to easier give softer falls.

Chloe Pay, who has done her first three 8A's in 2020, has also done her first 8A+, Mind Stream in Smugglers notch. During the last three months, the 18-year-old had done ten routes 7C+ and harder which can be compared to just one previously.

”I’ve been climbing for about 5 years. I was introduced to climbing after joining the local youth climbing team, and instantly, my passion for the sport soared. Up until last year, I had only climbed inside. When I ventured outside for the first time on a team trip, I was disgusted by the knife-like crimps of Vermont climbing and the lack of colorful, plastic holds. However, in a couple of short months, I have come to appreciate the outdoor sport for what it is and it has quickly become my preferred method of climbing. This summer I am hiking the long trail, a 273 mile trail in Vermont that goes from Massachusetts to Canada, and I rope climb during the sport/speed season, but I prefer to boulder.

I don’t think I have ever been quite as obsessed with a boulder as I was with this one. I had never truly projected a boulder before, so it was very cool to see the linear progress with each session. I had trouble managing my skin throughout this process. The climb consists of small, sloping crimps, the warm weather caused my skin to become soupy, and the volume of work put into this sharp, schist problem ended up puncturing and wearing down my skin often. I sent this boulder on my last go of the day at 11:00 pm. My mind felt empty and I was completely in the moment, a feeling I had never experienced while climbing, prior to this attempt. This climb, twenty feet from the parking lot, had been one of my dreams since the first time I went to Smuggs. I never thought I would be capable of climbing a boulder of this difficulty, so this was a big achievement for me.”

Brooke Raboutou, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, and Alex Puccio, have done The Automater 8B in RMNP. For Alex it was a repeat since 2014 and she comments on Insta. "With everything going on with Covid and gyms not being so accessible training outside has been something I have been getting use to. A lot of this means trying to repeat hard boulders which can definitely be mentally tough sometimes."

Oriane Bertone did her first 8A boulder at age 9 and with 70 up to 8C, she has been one of the best female boulderers for a couple of years although born 2005. On the competition scene, she has won almost every youth comp she has participated in.

When did you start climbing and what is it that attract you the most climbing routes and boulders?
Since I started climbing 7 years ago, my desires and my way of climbing have changed a lot. In the beginning, everything was beautiful to climb and I loved the feeling of arriving at the top of an object or obstacle, whatever it was. Over time, after visiting magnificent gyms and incredible natural sites, I began to find pleasure in the beauty of sites, lines, rocks, or holds. I also started to take an interest in the history of sites, roads, boulders, route setters, etc. Now I choose more what I climb and how to climb it, but what has not changed is the motivation and the pleasure to find myself at the top of my projects.

What is it you like the most in your climbing life?
What I love most about my climbing life is traveling. I love changing places, lifestyle, meeting new people. The natural sites are incredible, but I also like going to Turin, Milan, Stuttgart, Darmstadt, Innsbruck, etc. to discover incredible gyms, even if the private gyms in Reunion Island are great too.

Are there any challenges you have never tried but are looking forward to?
To be honest the next challenge that excites me particularly is to participate in senior competitions. I loved so much the ADIDAS Rockstar and the Studio Bloc Master last year. I look forward to competing in other competitions with super strong girls and super hard boulders and routes to try.

How is the climbing scene where you live?
In Reunion Island, we are a few climbers, but we all know each other and we are very united. Competitors are followed with great attention by clubs, the climbing league, private gyms. Some older climbers continue to bolt routes and brush boulders all over the island. It’s great to come back to Reunion after each trip!

Who has meant most for your climbing life?
It’s hard to say. My father and my mother, of course, are not climbers but who do everything to train and follow me in my travels. But I don't forget my first trainer François Baux, and my current trainers at the club, Vincent Etchar, and at the climbing pole in La Réunion, Philippe Gaboriaud. Many other people count and have counted in my life as a climber and which it's impossible to quote here.

Any specific goals in the short and long time perspective?
There are few short-term goals in the competition as the world championship should be canceled. Naturally, my goals are simply to progress by taking pleasure in climbing what I like. For example, in Saint Léger I had a very hard project that seemed feasible, but I preferred to abandon it because I did not want to spend my 15 days on one route. I will take the performances when the opportunity arises. In the longer term, I am thinking of Paris 2024 of course, but there is so much that can happen that it is more of a dream than a goal at the moment.

Katie Lamb has done her sixth 8A+, Element Of Surprise in just one session as well as her first 8B, Nuthin but sunshine both in RMNP. Previously in 2020, she has also done seven 8A's and the 22-year-old is #7 in the ranking game, however, counting only last month, she is #1.

"My battle with Nuthin But Sunshine (8B) began deep in the pit, getting schraged on the first move. Then with the help of my squad of life list friends, I found a New Foot and had a New Hope that enabled me to climb free to the top. Got in the lake, Element of Surprise (8A+, crimpy, athletic, fun!) was the icing on top of the cake of the lake. I owe it to my squad for supporting me in the pit and lapping up my tears." So how can you be in the best shape of your life so shortly after the lockdown?
During the lockdown, I was not training my physical strength, only mind workouts. Now I am only climbing on the rock because the gyms are closed. On rock, I can make my fingers strongest, my arms pumpest, and my mind fortified with knowledge. Climbing is a game of learning : )

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 8 and had good success as a child, climbing 5.14 when I was 15. But I always dreamed a truth of climbing 8B boulder.

Update: Yesterday she did her seventh 8A+, Riddles in the Park in RMNP.

Jose Luis Palao, who did the FA of Mona Lisa integral 9a+ in Rodellar two weeks ago, has done the first repeat of Jonathan Flor's 60 meters Apocalipsis de la Gioconda in Rodellar thinking it is also 9a+. Jose Luis bolted and cleaned the whole line during some 15 sessions and "Yes, my projects are always open." In total, he has bolted some 300 routes. (c) Jonathan Flor

Last year I made his first pitch and bolted also the extension but I was very far from being able to join them. When I came back this season after doing "Mona Lisa integral" I was very used to the wall and to this style of routes and in about four days I made it.

Alex Puccio has done Phallus 8A+ in Boulder, meaning she has done ten 8A+ and harder since last month. "Nice boulder! Maybe a little soft for V12 but a good climb. I did the 1 move higher start back in 2013 and don’t really know why I never tried the slightly lower start. Lol!"

The picture is from A New Hope 8A+ which, the runner-up in the World Champion in 2014, just published a video from on her Insta. Alex is #1, as she has been more or less the last seven years, in the 8a ranking game and in total, she has done 112 boulders 8A+ and harder.

Alex Chabot, 21 times World Cup winner in the 2000's before he stopped competing in 2007, has done Moksha 9a in Pic St Loup in just 24 hours. In the last week or so he has also onsighted two 8b+' as well as done one 8c+. He won the French Championship for six years straight but was later not allowed to participate due to not wanting to, "take part in a masquerade (wearing logos) in order to satisfy the powerful federation." After he finished competitions, he focused on Alpinism and got his mountain guide diploma. The 38-year-old has now done four 9a's including his first one in 2004. (c) Mélanie Cannac

"Today I have freedom and independence which makes me want to climb a lot more. I’ve been training a lot in the recent months! and my entourage of friends were very supportive!" Here is an old 8a interview where you can get a feeling for his ideologic open mindset. More comments on Fanatic Climbing