Maho Normand has done his second 8c+, San ku kai in Entraygues. Earlier this summer, the 145 cm tall did his first 8b onsight, Racing in the street in Rue de Masques. "San ku kai is a very physical route with large compression movements, I started to work this route at the start of the summer holidays and I had to put in about ten or fifteen sessions to be able to achieve this beautiful route in Entraygues. My next project is to make one more 8b onsight and to do an 8b+ flash."

Laura Rogora, who yesterday won the Briancon World Cup, reports on Insta that she has done La Prophétie des grenouilles 9a in Fournel and remarkable, she just needed three tries. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder out of which five this summer including one 9b. (c) Ida Mutto

“This is one of the best rock climbing routes in Tirol. An obvious line up the middle of the granite face’s impressive crack. This route immediately catches your eye!” (Barbara Zangerl)

• Climbing Area: Niederthai, Ötztal Valley
• Grade: 7b
• Length: 22 meters
• First Ascensionist: Matthias Burtscher (1993)

The route "Le Miracle" is located in a section known as "Minas Tirith & Glatteis" and begins with a tough section followed by an easier part where climbers can rest. Then it is time to move on to the crux of the route. Those climbing the route on sight and for the first time may have trouble here working out which hand to use for the narrow crack, but once this tricky section has passed the crack widens and it is more about technique than strength all the way to the top. The route is located in a cauldron-like arena with an area of sparse forest at 1,500 metres above sea level and the best time for climbing is between spring and autumn. Read more

“I have to say that in qualification, I was quite nervous after such a long time without competitions and I controlled some of my steps may be too much,” says Ondra, who was the only one to top the first route and who top the second one together with the Austrian Jakob Schubert.

“The semi-finals route was not pleasant at all. There were a few question marks when it was not clear at all how to climb the section, where to put my hands, where to put my feet. Even so, I was much more confident and could enjoy the climbing much more,” explains Ondra his feelings about the route. Ondra eventually reached the same position as the Austrian Schubert, but the initial happiness was replaced by accusations of stepping on the bolt by the side of referees. “I was again accused of, as well as of the Olympic qualification in Japan, that I stepped on the bolt. Fortunately, our protest was accepted and it was confirmed, that I really didn’t stand on it,” comments Ondra this little drama. Despite the same result with Schubert, he advanced to the finals from the first place, due to better result from the qualification.

“I had a great time in the finals. The route was rather endurance one, there were not so many uncertain steps and sequences that were difficult to read. The route graduated with a really difficult endurance finish, which was mainly about the perfect physical form, that I think, was very good in recent weeks,” says Ondra. The final section was pretty hard, but Ondra will remember this unique atmosphere and applause of 5,000 fans for a long time. “The last meters were really dramatic and I got very tired there. I thought these were my last steps before falling, but fortunately, I was able to hold that tiny hold and clip the rope into the final quickdraw. It was a really beautiful experience when 5,000 spectators applauded me. I think I will remember this victory for a long time,” smiles Ondra just after the competition. (c) Petr Chodura

Adam Ondra has seen he video and commented it, saying that he does not think it is easier with this beta for him. "Great news is that the route is possible without dislocating the knee though, which makes the route much better!"

Alex Megos, #5 in the Briancon World Cup, has published a rather critical reports on Insta in regards the Briancon World Cup. The German questions the regulations for the athletes in comparison to have 5 000 people standing side by side. "Does it make sense to let the athletes warm up side by side without masks in the isolation area but then make them wear masks as soon as they enter an area where the public can see them?" Furthermore, he does not think it is fair to call it a World Cup when almost only Europeans could attend.

All in all this comp was not as fun as I was hoping it would be. If future comps look like this I'm not sure I want to continue.

It should be mentioned that the former athlete represent Jorg Verhoeven has also published a critical post on Facebook. "It seems like this is a desperate IFSC measure to satisfy sponsor contracts, and a risk to many not worth taking."

Laura Rogora, who just did her first 9b, won her first World Cup and actually she did not touch the top hold as she was strong enough to clip from the second last hold. Also Janja Garnbret topped it in good style, almost shaking and resting from all the last holds. Boulder expert Fanny Gibert was third. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Interesting is that the 19-year-old Italian has done a four routes 9a to 9b this summer. In total, the 153 cm tall has now done 14 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is most by all female. Last year she qualified to Tokyo but in Lead she was just #14 overall, although she got the silver in the Euro Championships.

Adam Ondra created once again the perfect show by topping out the final route. As usual, he was almost running up the wall with ease beside the last two holds were he fought hard. Runner-up was Domen Skofic who got his first podium since he won once in 2018. Third was Jakob Schubert. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

After the final, there was a touching ceremony for Luce Douady who tragically died this summer at age 16, falling 150 meter from en exposed path. Last year she was the Youth Bouldering World Championship and she got the bronze in the European Championship in Lead for the seniors.

Alexander Rohr reports from the last most doing four 8c+' and two 9a's, out of which two FAs. In total the 24-year-old Swizz has now done 22 routes 8c+ and 9a with his last one knocking on the 9a+ door. More pics on Insta

"After having completed Adam Ondras's Transcription, 9a in Charmey, I quickly did El Molinero 8c+ in Gimmelwald, Les temps difficiles 8c+ in Soyhières as well as Le roi lézard 8c (+) in Jansegg. Then I switched focus to an old project in Gimmelwald. It starts with Surfers Paradise and then opts for the left exit. I thought it is harder than Wipeout. That is why it is called Knockout 8c+. The crux is right in front of the chains.

After that I moved to the old idea linking Jungfraumarathon, 9a into Gimmelexpress 8c+. It’s got one more bolt in-between to get to the last but hard ten meters of Gimmelexpress. You basically do the whole hard part of Jungfraumarathon without the last part which is around 7c+. Instead, you climb to the right and do the last part of Gimmelexpress. This part is the redpoint crux for Gimmelexpress too and would probably check in at 8b+. Short and very intense climbing. Two days before the successful attempt, I could repeat Jungfraumarathon three times in a day but I was still falling in the last hard move of the new link-up. I then took a restday. After that, I finally did it on the first go of the day."

The biggest sensation in the Briancon qualification was that Rishat Khaibullin was #6. The Kazakstanian will compete in Tokyo mainly due to his Speed result. Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra topped both routes.