NEWS

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Moritz Welt has done his sixth 9a during the last 12 months, Lulu in Cรฉรผse. Among the teenagers, he is #1 in the 8a ranking game.

"Tried this one straight for the last three weeks, at least about seven sessions or something. Fell a lot of times at the very end. Once even after the last crux in the final slab. Did it on the last day of my trip a few minutes before it started to rain".

Phallus 8A+ by Natalia Grossman (19)
Natalia Grossman, who has done four 8B's in 2020, has done her tenth 8A+ during the last five months, Phallus in RMNP. "Proud of this one:) My biggest mental battle to date!"

What the #4 in the 8a ranking game is talking about is that she injured her bicep on the first day she tried the sit start forcing her to take some time off. Later when she started bouldering again she did not want to push hard but even so tried it a bit. "Deep down I knew I shouldnโ€™t be trying Phallus so I took a month off from the climb. Yesterday, I finally went back after feeling healthy and strong and sent 1st try!" Full story on her Insta.

Alex Megos has said on Insta and to 8a that he thinks Underground is 8c+/9a or even 8c+. It is also listed as 8c+/9a on escalade9 and based on the 8a database, with 24 ascents, you understand that this impressive ascent should not be labeled only with the 9a grade. Anyhow the media says Megos flashed a 9a.

PlanetMountain reports that it was upgraded as C. Bindhammer, Hirayama and Mrazek thought it was either 8c+/9a or 9a. Strangely, in the 8a database, all these three climbers have recorded it as 8c+!

It should be mentioned that there exist several other examples when 8a report a lower grade in comparison to the other biggest climbing media. In other words, it is often the media who want to have the most impressive headlines that are driving grade inflation. Until some 15 years, 8a did often suggest downgrades in order to present more correct grades, which later always were confirmed. However, this stopped around 2005, as we got heavily criticised for it.

Edu Marin spent 170+ days in China out of which 50 days of bolting, to put up the hardest MP in the world, Valhalla.

13 September 2020

Laura Rogora portrait

Julia Chanourdie, who previously has done one 9a+, reports on Insta that has done her second 9a, Sang Neuf in Pierrot Beach. Directly after the send, she tried the extension Sweet Neuf 9a+ and says she will come back once the temperature has dropped. Anak Verhoeven has done the FA of both routes.

Chanourdie was #4 in the Lead World Cup and has since tried to make it to the Olympics and she made it happen in Toulouse where she was #2. Her Speed PB is 8.94 which is one of the best among the non-specialists and here on 8a, she has been predicted to be Top-8 overall in Tokyo, even before she had qualified.

Ali Hulk extension total 9a+ by Daniel Fuertes (39) - UPDATED!
Daniel Fuertes has done his second 9a+, Ali Hulk extension total in Rodellar. The 39-year-old did his first 9a out of 12 in 2009. (c) Carlos "citro" Logroรฑo

"For me it has been very important send because with this I return to do my best performance! I could not tell you how many days last years and this summer I have focused on these routes. I was climbing there about two weeks in June and then two weeks now. The key has been to not give up and also very important to share methods and tries with other climbers such as Enrique Gallardo and Dave Graham. When you try a hard route it is great to share methods for the crux because any small change can make a difference! That my little princess, Africa, has started the kindergarten, has been also very important haha ๐Ÿ˜œ, now I can spend more time climbing ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿ˜‚."