NEWS

18 routes 7c+ and harder in 8 days by Maho Normand (15)
2 November 2020

18 routes 7c+ and harder in 8 days by Maho Normand (15)

Maho Normand, who has done two 8c+' in 2020, has done his first trip to Margalef focusing on onsight and quick sends. During eight climbing days, the 15-year-old did 18 routes 7c+ and harder including five insights. In the Top-100 ascents ranking game, the 15-year-old is #7!

"Because it was my first time that I came to Margalef and I wanted to do a lot of routes but during my stay I did try an 8c where I was very close to doing a 9a or I worked the movements I really loved the atmosphere at Margalef in the sectors and will be back from on to try harder routes."

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2 November 2020

4 min 8B flash my Megos

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Condรฉ de choc 9a by Tanguy Merard (16)
2 November 2020

Condรฉ de choc 9a by Tanguy Merard (16)

Tanguy Merard has done his third 9a, Condรฉ de choc in Entraygues. "This summer I did Deltaplane man direct 8c+. The second part is the same as Condรฉ de choc. For me, it was the first step to be able to do it. I tried the start of it for the first in September but I couldn't do all the moves. After this, I focused on bouldering. When I came back, some days ago, I could do all moves. In the same day, I did the first part for the first time and then I gave everything to not fall in the last part. It worked after a big fight. I succeeded to mobilize all my energy! I am really happy๐Ÿ˜."

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1 November 2020

Day #2 on Perfecto Mundo 9b+

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La flรปte en chantier 8c+ by Nolwen Berthier
31 October 2020

La flรปte en chantier 8c+ by Nolwen Berthier

Nolwen Berthier, a former competition climber, is having her best year ever and has done her second 8c+, La flรปte en chantier in the Ramirole cave in Verdon. (c) Theo Cartier

"This line catches your attention from the first glance, its diversity of movements is exceptionnal, its climbing is tricky and demanding. In short, the very pure Kinglineโ€ฆ Clearly, itโ€™s for this kind of routes that I get up in the morning, train, climb!

During the first few tries, the crux seemed easy to me, but there were still three movements that I wasnโ€™t able to do. I was really not sure that it could work with my size. I had to reinvent the sections, to try out absurd or wacky methods, to finally find sequences that work. Make an insane drop knee while holding an intermediate hold? Dyno into a gaston flake? Getting quartered between two flat tufas? Challenge accepted! All the moves were done, itโ€™s just a matter of timeโ€ฆ and relentlessnessโ€ฆ and successโ€ฆ Okay, itโ€™s still not a given, but it starts from there! The Summer passed, then the Fall came, bringing better conditions, but with a stressful timing: the rain and the resurgences were about to comeโ€ฆ and the rumours of lockdownโ€ฆ In short, I had a little pressure! In rock climbing, the theory of merit rarely works, itโ€™s better to bet on the alignment of stars! Yesterday, all the parameters came together for a good run: shape, conditions, desire, lucidity, determination,โ€ฆ Magic!" an hard and aesthetic 40 meters line in an overhanging prow with tufas, bolted by Antonin Rhodes. Itโ€™s her second 8c+

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Jusqu'au bout du monde 8c by Katherine Choong
30 October 2020

Jusqu'au bout du monde 8c by Katherine Choong

Katherine Choong, who previously has done two 9a's, has done her 13th 8c, Jusqu'au bout du monde in Soyhiรจres. (c) Hugo Vincent

"I didn't really like climbing in the Jura before but because of the Covid19 I was forced to climb more local. With a bit of patience I started to really appreciate the style of the area. But I couldn't imagine climbing routes at my limit because of the bouldery / powerful style of the routes. Jusquโ€™au bout du monde is ~ 20 meters, starting with a hard section and a dyno for small climbers (the crux for me), and continue with a resistance end. It is a route bolted in 1989 by Philippe Steulet, a well-known Swiss climber from the region. It's "only" 8c but the crux took me a lot of time and cost me a lot of tries. It was finally last Wednesday that I managed to stick the dyno and fought against the pump all the way to the top ๐Ÿ˜Š"

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Biologico 9a by Gio Placci (19)
30 October 2020

Biologico 9a by Gio Placci (19)

Gio Placci, who recently did Underground 8c+ (9a) on his 30s training day on, has done Biologico 9a in Arco. The 19-year-old says that he trained and prepared his body for five weeks and this time he actually took a rest day. "Yesss , my first 9a is done , 4 days of tries , 5th try of the day." (c) Pietro Vidi

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The Emasculator 8B+ by Isabelle Faus
30 October 2020

The Emasculator 8B+ by Isabelle Faus

Isabelle Faus has done her third 8B+ since this summer, The Emasculator in the Dick cave. It is a steep 7C+ traverse into Daniel Woods 8B, Circle Jerk. In total, the 27-year-old has now done 32 boulders 8B and 8B+. (c) Greg Mionske

"More importantly, everything is on fire...the park and the national forest is closed, and thousands of people are evacuated.. stressful time on the front range right now." Check her Insta for more info and a video of the fire.

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30 October 2020

France is not going to Moscow

Fanny Gibert reports on Insta, "โž–French team just cancelled our participation to European championship taking place in 20 days โŒ โž•But pro athlete can keep training during lockdown."

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Two 8c's and an 8b OS by Solveig Korherr
29 October 2020

Two 8c's and an 8b OS by Solveig Korherr

Solveig Korherr has during ten days done eleven routes 8a+ and harder in Frankenjura including;
Klodike Cat 8c, "Wow! What a freaking good day! Definitely my style! Psyched to have sent it in my third try. First 8c in a day!"
Roof Warrior 8c, " Last day, best day! What a sick roof! It was so much fun finding all the beta and climbing through the horizontal and pumpy part of the route. Jon would have been proud of my kneebars :D"
Triebwerke 8b onsight,"I think more experience on rock over the last few years have made me much better at making decisions and reading the rock on the fly."

"My trip to the Frankenjura was rather spontaneous as I was only supposed to stay for two/ three days but in the end, I stayed for ten days and it couldnโ€™t have been better. At the beginning, I just wanted to climb a lot of routes without any specific goal and pressure. I guess that was the key in the end to have a very successful trip and a lot of fun!" (c) Julian Bรผckers

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