NEWS

"I planned to stay one week in Font during the autumn holiday but with the lockdown I could stay one week more. It was two awesome weeks with really good conditions; sunny, windy and cold weather and my sport dispensation made these outdoor sessions legal. The objective was to finish some classics and to try some hard boulders. During the first week I completed the first part of my objective with some classics like Ubik, La Merveille or Gourmandise (the short one). The second week was a success with 2 8B+ (Mรฉcanique Elรฉmentaire and Gecko sit). I did the first one in one session and the second one in 5 tries, one year after the stand start.

Super Pod 9a by Jonathan Siegrist
Jonathan Siegrist has done his 39th 9a, Super Pod at New Riger Gorge. "Totally desperate (!!) crimp boulder after the most lovely 8a ever. Low in the grade. 4 tries." On Insta he comments, "When the weather cooperates it sure does feel like this might just be the best crag in America..." (c) Tesla Mitchell

His comments on Still Life 8c, reveals that this route is also of the highest quality. "Damn. A complete masterpiece. The rumours are true!! Same day as Super Pod. So psyched on the New right now!"

Hulk Extension Total 8c+ by "Citro" (50)
Carlos "Citro" Logroรฑo reports on Insta that he has done Hulk Extension Total 8c+ in Rodellar. Interestingly, Citro has never done a 9a so he is peaking at age 50. More info to come. (c) Javi Pec

17 November 2020

The Way to Change #1

La Force Tranquille direct 8C FA by Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he first did the second repeat of Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille 8C in Magic Wood in just one session. On the next session, he opted for the original direct exit and within an hour he made the FA of the direct and although a bit harder, it remains 8C. (c) Michael Piccolruaz

The 29-year-old Austrian, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has been the best male Lead competition climber the last ten years. In total, he has won 21 World Cups, out of which 18 in Lead. Including also one 9b+ and four 9b's, Jakob should be considered the runner up climber in the world after Adam Ondra during the last ten years together with Alex Megos.

Beautiful pain 8c+ by Lucija Tarkus (17)
Lucija Tarkus from Slovenia has done her first 8c+, Beautiful pain in Kotecnik.

"At first, I didnโ€™t intend to dedicate myself to climb this route. Instead, I wanted to send Butnskala 8b+. When I sent it on my first attempt day, I decided to just try to climb Beautiful pain. I couldn't send it the same day as I only tried the moves. Then, on the next day succeeded on my 5th attempt yesterday."

In 2018, she won two Euro Cups and last year she got the bronze in Bouldering in the Euro Championship. The picture by Fabian Poels is from Arco.

HOW TENDON ROPES ARE MADE
Advertorial: You can imagine how to make climbing shoes, jacket or harness. But do you know anything about the climbing rope?

What is it made of, how to braid it, why is it flexible, how do we impregnate and test it? And what will you say if the best climber in the world shows it clearly and explains it to you โ€“ Adam Ondra as a guy in work trousers with a huge moustache and afro hair cut from the 1970s. More info - How tendon ropes are made?