Jonathan Hörst (18) and big brother Cameron (20) have done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Jonathan: "What a day! Undoubtedly my best day of climbing ever and a milestone for me. First of the grade and the first 8c+ I’ve worked on. After many beta burns in undesirable conditions and pumpy redpoint goes I acquired the fitness to knock it off. Fell off the top crimp move the go before and sent unexpectedly after (then Sugar Magnolia 8b). These moves will be forever engrained in my brain. Classic!

My endurance is the best it’s ever been and my capacity to climb while pumped is also better than it has been. I was training endurance burns with hard climbing separated by jug rests. This was my first time spending over a week at the red so I managed to get the Red river gorge fitness. So psyched!"

Picture by his father Eric Hörst, who is a famous coach and auther. "Jonathan played America football for 10 years, while only climbing part-time. He climbed his first 8b+ at age 10 (a record at the time), but just now is he climbing more, since he's in college...and only climbing (no more football). So he did both his first 8c climbs this summer, and his first 8c+ last week! He's often in the shadow of his older brother, but Jon is very talented too! 🙂"

Stephan Rest has done his first 8C, Das Schwert in Hammerhöhle after some 18 sessions spread out over five months. It was put up by Klem Loskot. "

Projecting this boulder was pretty hard due to its location on the corner of a cave. You never knew if it would be dry or wet. As it got colder and colder I got closer to sending the boulder but I wasn’t sure if I would be able to send it this year. When the temperature were low and the boulder was completely dry I knew I had to send it. And I did. It is 12 moves to the top and the hardest move is to a slopy crimp and then bumping into a bad undercling and placing your foot to the same height as the hand."

Ekaterina Barashchuk of Russia and Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine won two extremely tight battles, getting the 2020 European Speed titles. Among the non-Speed specialists, Sascha Lehmann and Petra Klingler were best at #12 with 7.29 respectively #7 with 8.59. This was a new PB by Petra and she is now second after Miho Nonaka (8.43) among the non-Speed specialists. Complete results.

Aleksei Rubtsov won the qualification in the Europan Bouldering Championship scoring 35 in six tries. (c) Nikita Tsarev

Anze Peharc and Vadim Timonov had the same scoring using seven respectively eight tries. In total, there were five Russian on Top-11. Complete results

In total, there were 43 guys competing with the Speed qually and final winners shared the last position scoring nothing. The semi starts tomorrow at 8 am. It will be very interesting to see if all guys focusing on Tokyo 2021, will do as many tries as they use to or if they will make less attempts in order to save their skin?

Fred Rouhling put up Akira at Le Périgord in 1995 suggesting 9b for it. At that time there existed no 9a+ and actually, Alex Huber did not believe him and this was spread around. Jean-Baptiste Tribout and Andrada had tried it and they did not think it was 9b even if they never did it. 8a did always back him up and in 2004, Climbing published and article leaving no doubt that he could have done it. In regards the grade, Rouhling has told 8a that possibly it would have been better to call it 8C+ as it, in practice, is a 12-meter boulder roof where you later tie in and do an 8a route.

Now Rouhling reports on Insta that Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez have made the first two repeats, saying it is as hards as Rouhling's 9a, Hugh. They think the starting boulder is rather 7C instead of the 8B, Fred has said. "I don’t know but limestone cracks. Perhaps the holds became bigger. When Yuji Hirayama and Dai Koyamada came to try. They thought there was a very big difference between Akira and Hugh...😭.

Fred has done a total of six FA 9a or harder including Salamandre 9a+ and the three unrepeated; l’autre côté du ciel 9a, Mandallaz drive 9a and Empreintes 9a+. Here is a 13-year-old video when he is playing around in the roof.

In a previous 8a interview he said, "I was quite obsessed with the limit between the possible and the impossible. It’s only in the first ascent that we can have this sensation. It is not funny to have detractors but on the other hand to have done things that others consider impossible it’s a consecration especially if these climbers are supposed to be among the best." (c) Julien Nadiras

Jernej Kruder, the male favourite to get an Olympic ticket, was the only athlete to top all four boulders. As in the qually, Russia performed the best getting four guys into Top-8. Also Israel had good results with five male Top-16. Among the female, Viktoria Meshkova scored 34 in six tries just ahead of Chloe Caulier using one attempt more. Complete results.

Roland Hemetzberger reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Neuron 9a+ in Achleiten. Stefan Fürst bolted it some 25 years ago which has an 8c+ start and then you continue in the exit of an 9a called The Void. The 29-year-old living in Innsbruck has previously done seven routes 8c+/9a or harder out of which five in Achleiten. "After Qui 9a+ this is my hardest route so far."

Roland is also a very accomplished multi-pitch and trad climber always looking for adventures. The picture by Stefan Kühn is from another project. He is also projecting a new multipitch project at Wilder Kaiser which will be harder than WOGÜ 8c which he sent two years ago.

Tiba Vroom, who did her first 8A+ last month, has done Riverbed 8B in Magic Wood. Four months ago she had 7C as her personal best but during the last two months, mainly spent in Magic, she has done eigth boulders 8A and harder. (c) Hannes Kutza

"Best line I've ever tried, what a legendary boulder. So incredibly psyched to get this done! I just felt like I hadn't reached my limit yet in rock climbing so I decided to stay in Magic Wood to try a really hard project. The line Riverbed immediately caught my attention when I saw it for the first time, and when I saw the video of Alex Puccio climbing it I was really inspired and I knew I would enjoy the moves. At first I thought it would be too hard for me now and I needed a lot of time to do it, but when I had worked out all the moves, I saw it becoming possible more and more. I decided to give it my all and try to climb it this trip. In the end I think it was mostly a mental battle and I'm so happy I could pull through and send this dreamline!

Normally I don’t go bouldering by myself, always with my boyfriend and coach, but he couldn’t stay as long unfortunately. But because it was my only chance to climb outdoors with all the corona restrictions and also no competitions I decided to stay by myself in my bus.

The new Speed World Record holder is Iuliia Kaplina with 6.96. The Russian won the qualification in the Euro Championship ahead of Alexandra Kalucka 7.75. Complete results. © Leo Zhukov

Noteworthy is that this was the tenth time Kaplina has set a new WR and that she has won 12 World Cups.

A total of 31 women participated out of which a dozen non-Speed specialists with previous good WC results. Petra Klingler, who has qualified to Tokyo, was the fastest among those with 9.01.

Loic Zehani, who previously has done 23 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Demon 9a+/b in Orgon. The 18-year-old did his first 9a five years ago and has done a total of 13 FAs, 9a and harder.

"A great line that starts in "Sachidananda" then joins the "Bronx" with a new hard and natural hard link-up. A big fight and great conditions were necessary to send this 55 movements monster of resistance. The first 20 movements are ultra powerful (7C+ boulder in "Sachi" and 8A boulder connecting with Bronx). For the difficulty I suggest 9a+/b because it is still significantly harder than Sachidananda 9a+, 😜😉."