Iris Matamoros Quero has repeated Dani Andrada’s Ali hulk extension (9a+), logging it as a 9a. The 45-year-old had his best year ever in 2024 when he sent one 9a and three 8c+’. ”Nowadays people climb it using kneepads, and that changes the difficulty a bit. I’m not saying it’s easy now — because it definitely isn’t! — but maybe it’s no longer quite 9a+. I think there’s a general consensus that it’s currently considered 9a.” (c) Juan Puig Vals

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
In September 2022, I sent P con fin mas hulk extension (9a) in the Alibaba Cave. At that moment, I thought about trying Ali Hulk Extension, since I already knew the upper part and only had to solve the lower section, Alibaba — a tough 8c. I spent the three remaining days I had trying it; I really liked it, but I couldn’t finish it.

I always wanted to go back, but it’s not easy when you live seven hours away and have two small kids. This July we went to Rodellar, and I started working on it again. It was very hot, but my goal was clear: to train on the route, figure out every detail, and come back in October under better conditions.

In August, we climbed in Flatanger, which turned out to be perfect training — long, physical routes with lots of kneebars. Right after coming back from Norway, at the end of August, I decided to make a quick trip to Rodellar. I wanted to see exactly what I was missing so I could plan one last month of focused training.

I spent September training hard, trying to make everything as specific as possible for that route. In early October, I went back to Rodellar. I had to ask for time off work, and my wife stayed home with our two kids. I’m really grateful to her for that. It was kind of my 45th birthday present.

I felt strong in the first few days, but the route is very long and full of details, and I fell several times. It’s so physically demanding that I could only give one or two serious tries a day, so every attempt came with a lot of pressure. The days went by without success...

On my second-to-last day, I managed to get past the Hulk section — which I think on its own could already be around 9a. My goal was to continue all the way to the extension, but I clipped that anchor to secure that milestone, then I climbed down and continued climbing. I fell just before the final anchor of the extension. I was sad and happy at the same time.

The next day — my last day — I tried again, and this time I made it all the way to the anchor of Alí Hulk Extension. A dream come true. Though honestly, I’m still dreaming of coming back to do it properly, from the ground — Alí Hulk Extension sit start 9a+.

Starting from the sit start definitely adds that “plus,” in my opinion. I’d love to go back in the future to try it — it would be amazing to climb the full route and reach that level of difficulty at my age!

How did you prepare for the send?
On my last trip, I took photos of every single move. I tried to simulate all the conditions of the route — the time on the wall, the intensity of the effort, the rests. Training the legs and core is really important, since strong calves let you stay longer in the kneebars. It’s a very physical route that leaves your whole body destroyed, so it’s essential to prepare for that full-body effort — not just the forearms.

How long did one attempt take and how much rest in between?
Each attempt took me between 20 and 25 minutes on a horizontal roof. I would climb one day and rest the next.

Noah Wheeler, who did two 9A’s in the beginning of the year, has done Pegasus (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). ”Tried like 3 years ago and it lowkey gave me months-long synovitis [inflammation of tissue around the tendons]. Thankfully, due to much training and experimentation, that wasn’t an issue this time around. Went second try after getting through the initial sequence.”

Pepa Šindel, who the last five months has sent six 9a’s, has flashed Morpheus (8c) in Götterwandl. ”Thank you Venca for the beta! You’re the GOAT☝️🐐”

Who is Venca?
Venca is my [little] brother and he was projecting Morpheus for the last 2 days of our trip after he sent Nophrodete (8b+) right next to it. He gave me a perfect beta for the flash and I got quite lucky as well in the endurance part after the crux.

Tyler Thompson, who last spring did his second 9a+, has completed Resisting Arrest (9a) in Mt. Charleston. ”Great experience coming back to this one after checking out the moves last year. Ultra fun roof climbing.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I just moved to Vegas and this was the first route I had in my mind to try after getting here. I had checked out the moves last year one day after doing Arrested development and knew it would suit me well. This year I did it on my 3rd day trying after falling off the shared redpoint crux cross move a few times.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
I’m working right now and am going to focus on climbing around Vegas and training for the next couple of months. I’m planning on going to Spain early next year.

Alba Gómez Calatayud, who started climbing four years ago at age 21, has onsighted her first two 8a’s as well as the 60m long Mort Aux Chèvres Ext (8a+) in Kalymnos. (c) Nhoa Noir - Ulises en aixorta

Can you tell us more about your PB onsight?
It took me around 45 minutes to onsight the route. The rope felt quite heavy near the end — it was long and had a few zigzags, so the rope drag was pretty intense 😅. Still, it was an amazing, technical and sustained line, and that day I climbed very smoothly, feeling really connected to the rock. The day before, I had onsighted my first 8a, so I felt confident and motivated. Climbing like that, flowing and enjoying every move, reminded me why I love rock climbing so much: the focus, the calm, and that unique sense of freedom.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing in 2021 at a climbing gym with friends, and later, when I moved to Elche, I focused first on bouldering and then on rope climbing. In 2024, I sent my first 8b, and in the summer of 2025 I had a great season in Rodellar, sending several 8b in just a few attempts. I compete at the regional and national level, and since September last year I have been training with Manu Esparcia. I currently live in Valencia and train at Alicante Vertical and Natural Climb, where I also work as a routesetter, combining my passion for climbing with route creation and coaching.

Laura Rogora, who was #9 in the world championship last week, has completed Andiamo (8c+) in Allgäu. Overall, the 24-year-old was #3 in the World Cup 2025 and on rock she has done several 9a’s as well as onsighted up to 8c+. (c) Hugo Pilcher

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I am here to visit the EDELRID headquarter and to help on a study about how much PPE equipment can influence the sportive performance. After the test I wanted to climb more and tried this line which went down in my third go.

Eneko Carretero, with there 8c+’ under his belt, has sent Celedon (9a) in Egino, La Leze. The 24-year-old sent his first 8c in 2016 and then he had a big break until this year when he sent his first 8c+.

”I’ve been competing but the main reason of this big break was that I had a mental barrier with this grade, I was afraid of failure with trying something like this.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
So this 9a is a combo of an 8c+ and an 8c. The first day that I went to this crag I did the 8c and with another 2-3 days I did the 8c+. Then in my 3rd go of the combo I could sent it yesterday. After falling in the last quickdraw on my first go from the bottom of the combo🤣

What are your autumn and winter plans?
My plan now is to try some other 9as, to feel the confidence to try something harder. I also have some boulders in mind but now I’m too motivated with the rope hahaha.

Simone Tentori, who earlier this summer has done two 8C’ in Rocklands, finishes up by sending Monkey Wedding (8C). ”Last day best day. Such a special way to conclude a 3-month trip in ZA. Special thanks to Siara and Ben for the support.” (c) Benjamin Malherbe

On Instagram, he gives more details about his very last try on his long term project. ”With September, African spring came and temps started to rise a lot, very quickly. I found myself on the very last day of the trip, luckily on a crazy windy day. Besides the good condies, I was not feeling good at all. After a few bad tries and 2 splits, I started to process the idea of giving up.

But then I thought: 'Fuck it, I'm here, in paradise, with a chance to try hard on a freaking cool hard boulder. Let's enjoy that for a little bit more' I taped my fingers and completely erased any outcome scenario from my head. I pulled on from the start hold and I just climbed it.”

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Matteo Gambaro, who last year sent his seventh 9a, has completed Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione, after giving it at least 50 tries over more than 20 days. ”Infinity tries🙏”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying this beautiful line this spring. It's a completely natural route, very overhanging and on small, often oblique and awkward holds, requiring a lot of finger strength, technique, and good body tension to stay in position. At first, I struggled even just doing the individual moves, and honestly, I was thinking more about training on the route than about a future ascent.

Little by little, I refined my technique and found my beta by trying the route with friends, and I started training specifically at home on my campus board. I worked the route, trying to link the central section, which is the most intense (about 25 moves). After many days, I succeeded, but trying it from the ground, the first 10 meters, which were easier, were enough to make me fall near the top of the route.

The autumnal conditions helped me a lot, even though this year's early cold was already bothersome for size 50 fingers. After getting very close a week ago, I returned convinced I'd climb it, but it was cloudy and cold, and I couldn't improve. Finally, Monday was the right day with perfect conditions, and everything went perfectly.

At age 50, do you need another strategy working and doing a 9a compared to ten years ago?
Yes… I need to be more organized, climb less, but with more focus. I'm bolting a new big sector, but this summer I bolted less than I wanted to avoid burning myself out. 😉 I still have to work for another 10 years, and sometimes I feel tired… 10 years ago, I had more energy than I do now. I can still improve, but I need to rest more and do shorter, more focused power sessions. At the crag, I should try the route just a few times and focus on finding all the beta to climb it more efficiently.