Noah Wheeler, who did two 9A’s in the beginning of the year, has done Pegasus (8C) in Joe's Valley (UT). ”Tried like 3 years ago and it lowkey gave me months-long synovitis [inflammation of tissue around the tendons]. Thankfully, due to much training and experimentation, that wasn’t an issue this time around. Went second try after getting through the initial sequence.”

Pepa Šindel, who the last five months has sent six 9a’s, has flashed Morpheus (8c) in Götterwandl. ”Thank you Venca for the beta! You’re the GOAT☝️🐐”

Who is Venca?
Venca is my [little] brother and he was projecting Morpheus for the last 2 days of our trip after he sent Nophrodete (8b+) right next to it. He gave me a perfect beta for the flash and I got quite lucky as well in the endurance part after the crux.

Tyler Thompson, who last spring did his second 9a+, has completed Resisting Arrest (9a) in Mt. Charleston. ”Great experience coming back to this one after checking out the moves last year. Ultra fun roof climbing.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I just moved to Vegas and this was the first route I had in my mind to try after getting here. I had checked out the moves last year one day after doing Arrested development and knew it would suit me well. This year I did it on my 3rd day trying after falling off the shared redpoint crux cross move a few times.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
I’m working right now and am going to focus on climbing around Vegas and training for the next couple of months. I’m planning on going to Spain early next year.

Alba Gómez Calatayud, who started climbing four years ago at age 21, has onsighted her first two 8a’s as well as the 60m long Mort Aux Chèvres Ext (8a+) in Kalymnos. (c) Nhoa Noir - Ulises en aixorta

Can you tell us more about your PB onsight?
It took me around 45 minutes to onsight the route. The rope felt quite heavy near the end — it was long and had a few zigzags, so the rope drag was pretty intense 😅. Still, it was an amazing, technical and sustained line, and that day I climbed very smoothly, feeling really connected to the rock. The day before, I had onsighted my first 8a, so I felt confident and motivated. Climbing like that, flowing and enjoying every move, reminded me why I love rock climbing so much: the focus, the calm, and that unique sense of freedom.

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing in 2021 at a climbing gym with friends, and later, when I moved to Elche, I focused first on bouldering and then on rope climbing. In 2024, I sent my first 8b, and in the summer of 2025 I had a great season in Rodellar, sending several 8b in just a few attempts. I compete at the regional and national level, and since September last year I have been training with Manu Esparcia. I currently live in Valencia and train at Alicante Vertical and Natural Climb, where I also work as a routesetter, combining my passion for climbing with route creation and coaching.

Laura Rogora, who was #9 in the world championship last week, has completed Andiamo (8c+) in Allgäu. Overall, the 24-year-old was #3 in the World Cup 2025 and on rock she has done several 9a’s as well as onsighted up to 8c+. (c) Hugo Pilcher

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I am here to visit the EDELRID headquarter and to help on a study about how much PPE equipment can influence the sportive performance. After the test I wanted to climb more and tried this line which went down in my third go.

Eneko Carretero, with there 8c+’ under his belt, has sent Celedon (9a) in Egino, La Leze. The 24-year-old sent his first 8c in 2016 and then he had a big break until this year when he sent his first 8c+.

”I’ve been competing but the main reason of this big break was that I had a mental barrier with this grade, I was afraid of failure with trying something like this.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
So this 9a is a combo of an 8c+ and an 8c. The first day that I went to this crag I did the 8c and with another 2-3 days I did the 8c+. Then in my 3rd go of the combo I could sent it yesterday. After falling in the last quickdraw on my first go from the bottom of the combo🤣

What are your autumn and winter plans?
My plan now is to try some other 9as, to feel the confidence to try something harder. I also have some boulders in mind but now I’m too motivated with the rope hahaha.

Simone Tentori, who earlier this summer has done two 8C’ in Rocklands, finishes up by sending Monkey Wedding (8C). ”Last day best day. Such a special way to conclude a 3-month trip in ZA. Special thanks to Siara and Ben for the support.” (c) Benjamin Malherbe

On Instagram, he gives more details about his very last try on his long term project. ”With September, African spring came and temps started to rise a lot, very quickly. I found myself on the very last day of the trip, luckily on a crazy windy day. Besides the good condies, I was not feeling good at all. After a few bad tries and 2 splits, I started to process the idea of giving up.

But then I thought: 'Fuck it, I'm here, in paradise, with a chance to try hard on a freaking cool hard boulder. Let's enjoy that for a little bit more' I taped my fingers and completely erased any outcome scenario from my head. I pulled on from the start hold and I just climbed it.”

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Matteo Gambaro, who last year sent his seventh 9a, has completed Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione, after giving it at least 50 tries over more than 20 days. ”Infinity tries🙏”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying this beautiful line this spring. It's a completely natural route, very overhanging and on small, often oblique and awkward holds, requiring a lot of finger strength, technique, and good body tension to stay in position. At first, I struggled even just doing the individual moves, and honestly, I was thinking more about training on the route than about a future ascent.

Little by little, I refined my technique and found my beta by trying the route with friends, and I started training specifically at home on my campus board. I worked the route, trying to link the central section, which is the most intense (about 25 moves). After many days, I succeeded, but trying it from the ground, the first 10 meters, which were easier, were enough to make me fall near the top of the route.

The autumnal conditions helped me a lot, even though this year's early cold was already bothersome for size 50 fingers. After getting very close a week ago, I returned convinced I'd climb it, but it was cloudy and cold, and I couldn't improve. Finally, Monday was the right day with perfect conditions, and everything went perfectly.

At age 50, do you need another strategy working and doing a 9a compared to ten years ago?
Yes… I need to be more organized, climb less, but with more focus. I'm bolting a new big sector, but this summer I bolted less than I wanted to avoid burning myself out. 😉 I still have to work for another 10 years, and sometimes I feel tired… 10 years ago, I had more energy than I do now. I can still improve, but I need to rest more and do shorter, more focused power sessions. At the crag, I should try the route just a few times and focus on finding all the beta to climb it more efficiently.

Leo Bøe, who last year did his first 9a+, has made the first ascent of Hafgúfa (9a+) in Trondheim. The 25-year-old did his first 9a in 2023 and how he is approaching 20. ”So inspired by this rock climb and I can’t wait to see other people on it!”

Can you give us your full story of this first ascent?
The story of Hafgúfa started last year when we explored islands surrounding Flatanger. We found many promising walls, caves, boulders, but this line stood out as the most impressive one. The roof had obvious features shaped for climbing and it looked exactly like the kind of project I had been searching for.

This summer we came back with the drill and it was easy to bolt with a tall latter. On the same day I started trying the moves which felt bouldery and purely physical. It was obvious that the route would turn into something close to my limit. After days of running back and fourth with the small boat I had all the beta sorted for the route that mainly breaks down into 3 hard boulder problems stacked.

Here is the breakdown:
• 7C+ / 8A - Physical on small edges combined with a toe hook and then a small jump at the end
• No rest
• 8A / 8A+ On powerful undercuts into a pogo dyno jump into a one handed jug!
• Good nohands rest in double kneebar
• 7C+ Endurance boulder with lots of body tension.
• Good rest (left kneebars)
• 8a route
• Drop-off on the ledge to finish

After 14 sessions I had fallen a couple times on the dyno. If I stuck the move I would have a high chance of sending. Somehow after taking some days off and travelling to Lofoten with Johanna, the crew had built a massive platform with tonns of rock beneath the first two boulder problems. It was now possible to climb the whole start (crux) as a boulder and so I started trying the route as a mix between two styles.

We had around 12 pads and on my 2nd burn I stuck the dyno for the first time! From there Johanna passed me the rope whilst I was in the double kneebar rest and I clipped it to my harness with a carabiner. I was nervous as it was the first time trying this method, but the practice had payed off and I stuck the final 7C+ boulder. In the last few meters of climbing along the lip of the roof I was in the golden hour light and it felt special. I got a rush of joy, relief and satisfaction as I topped out onto the ledge.

Months of hard work and commitment had paid off and the best part was how it always felt like a fun process because of the unique set of moves. In the end I decided to name the route «Hafgúfa» which is a colossal sea monster from Norse mythology. It was said to be so giant that it would be confused with an island before it gaped swallowing whole ships.