NEWS

Moritz Welt has done Gomorrha in Frankenjura, put up as an 8c by Markus Bock in 2009. "Really good line with some brutal crimp moves, originally graded 8c, but a few holds have broken, would suppose 8c+/9a now."

The day before, he did 21 Times Tha Pain 8c+ twice as also getting on tape for yet another uncut video. In total, the 20-year-old has done 17 routes 8c+ and 9a during the last year and he is #9 in the 8a ranking game.

Nacho Sanchez, who did the first ever 8C in Spain in 2011, has done the first repeat of Ruben Diaz' Juneru 8C in Albarracin. In total, Nacho has done some ten 8C and harder problems.

Graz Euro Youth - Boulder
The European Bouldering Youth Cup in Graz gathered some 250 participants and overall it was a great success with an almost perfect route setting. All but one boulder were topped and only a handful of climbers did not make any zones. Noteworthy is that Olympian Alberto Gines Lopez was #3 among the juniors after he had won the qualification. Interestingly, ten climbers competed in the final instead of the normal six, based on IFSC semi format. Most impressive was Nikolay Rusev, in the picture, who first won the qualification and then onsighted all four final boulders.
02: Barnabรฉ Eliot FRA - Lucie Watillon BEL
04: Carmanns Leander GER - Sabina Van Essen NED
06: Nikolay Rusev BUL - Barbora Bernardova CZE
Complete results

Mejorando Imagen 9a+ (b) by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the third ascent of Mejorando Imagen in Margalef, which Ramon Julian Puiblanque made the FA of in 2013 as a 9a. Alex Megos did the first repeat in March and suggested an upgrade to 9b. Jorge took it down after eight working days and thinks it is 9a+/b. (c) Paul Alonso Prat

"8 working days. Incredible line equipped by Iker Pou of short resistance with explosive steps on monos and two-finger pockets. Congratulations to Ramรณn for that FA and to รlex Megos for the second promotion. For me, more 9a+/b, will see what repeaters will say!"

On his Insta he comments, "Of course, it will be my hardest route without kneepads ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿฅณ๐Ÿฆต" Previously, the 21-year-old, who has been #1 in the 8a ranking years for two years, has done six 9b's.

L'extremacura plus 8c+ by Gianluca Vighetti (12)
Gianluca Vighetti, who did four 8a's at age 8, has done L'extremacura plus 8c+ in Gravere, which was put up by his father Valter in 2000. Last month, they were in Margalef and Rodellar for one week where the 12-year-old did six 8a and 8a+ onsights. Out of his 21 latest recorded ascents, 14 are onsights 7c and harder. The only other youngster, in the 8a news the last 20 years, with such focus on onsights, is Adam Ondra. (c) Fabio Fin

Could you please say something about your focus on onsights?
I like onsight climbing because itโ€™s like discovering new routes and especially when Iโ€™m travelling in new places I like to try to onsight routes. The focus is just not to think, breathe and stay quiet. I had yoga for one year. Flexibility is very helpful for climbing, which is my real strength and to stay relaxed when you climb.

Where have you learnt to speak so good English?
Watching climbing videos on YouTube. My favourite climbing Channel is Stefano Ghisolfi, his English is very good.

Underground 8c+/9a by Eva Hammelmรผller
Eva Hammelmรผller has done the classical Underground 8c+/9a in Arco after just four sessions and eleven tries in total. The 21-year-old, who previously has done a dozen routes 8c and 8c+, is #3 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Tobias Lanzanasto

"As steep and powerful climbing does not really suit my style, I was unsure whether the route wouldnโ€™t be way too hard for me. On my first try, I couldnโ€™t do all the moves, but the sequences felt great and I was amazed by the complexity of the route, including upside down climbing and crazy hooks. However, I made good progress, and when I stuck the last dyno in the first crux for the first time, I climbed to the top!"

Zipayorik ez!! 8c (+) flash by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has flashed Zipayorik ez!! 8c (+) in Margalef. The 21-year-old is #1 in the 8a ranking game, including two 8c onsights, which he has been for almost two years now.

What kind of beta did you get?
A friend told me while I was climbing, although there was a block that I improvised, changing the method based on another friend because I was not very clear about it.

More info in his Insta, where he says. "I don't usually climb to flash, I always try onsight although I have always thought that it is a style that I am good at. After this route I will want to try some harder ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ’ฅ".

Panodrama 9a FA by Kymy de la Pena
Kymy de la Pena has done the FA of Panodrama 9a in Patones. Previously the 35-year-old has done 13 8c+' and four 9a's. "It is an extension to the classical Panodrama 8c+/9a bolted by Jose Luis Palao (Primo) with a final crux." (c) Laura Laksmi

Godzilla 8A (+) by Arabella Jariel (19)
Bella Jariel, who did her first 7C+ at age 14, has done her second 8A (+) Godzilla in Godzilla Boulder. Video on her Insta. (c) Austin Hoyt

"WOOOH ONE SESH! Been in a slump lately, but felt so psyched to put this thing down quickly. Didn't look possible watching my friends try it, but I figured it was worth a go today. This thing has pretty few ascents, so it's hard to tell what the grade is. For now, I'm thinking maybe a slash grade V11/12? I will let time tell. Anyways, very happy to get a local FFA in the books. This is definitely the best one on the boulder."

Could you please say something more how you could take it down in just one session?
I had very low expectations when I first decided to try Godzilla. It is one of the most intimidating climbs on the boulder that goes up a very obvious arete. The crux is a very awkward, high tension deadpoint around the corner to a sidepull that was barely within reach for me. I stuck the crux in isolation early on in the session, and was extremely surprised. At that point, I figured it was worth some goes from the bottom, and I managed to carry the psyche all the way to the top of the climb. Never thought it would go down in one session, so Iโ€™m excited to see how I can continue to push my limits on even harder climbs!