Stefano Ghisoli qualified to the final based on countback with three other climbers. Then first out in the final, he reached the second last hold. Later, the next four climbers seem to fall mainly due to technical route reading mistakes high up on the route. Third last out is Jakob Schubert finding Ghisolfi's beta with a very high heel hook on the crux and then having good control until the last hold before the top jug. Last out is Adam Ondra and we can all see how incredible tight shoes he has when he puts them on just before starting to climb. It was raining and most climbers did just put on the shoes on stage. (c) Vladek Zumr

He started in his normal fast style but suddenly slips with his right hand and also his right foot cut loose. Swinging out his bent left arm gets straightened out be he hangs on. Then he takes a long rest to recover but then again after just a couple of moves his right foot cut loose. "It is just this crazy slip. It is almost unnatural. It almost feels like his shoes were wet or something." Commentator Alex Khazanov is pretty shocked by what he saw.
In the winner interview, Jakob shows great sportsmanship saying that he would have liked seeing what Ondra could have done at the top.

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 47+
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 47
3. Sascha Lehmann SUI 38+
4. Masahiro Higuchi JPN 38+
5. Alberto Gines Lopez ESP 37+

Janja Garnbret started out last and before her, only Brooke Raboutou had come up on the headwall and Akiyo Noguchi had come halfways. The other five females had fallen doing dynos long way further down. Laura Rogora was second last out but hesitated and struggled clipping the third quickdraw. Then she clipped the fourth very high up making the coming dyno harder and she fell. A fall clipping the third actually looked scary and earlier Viktoria Meshkova had smashed into the wall upside down.

Last out was Janja and in her normal casual style, she cruised to the top smiling. Overall, the Olympians dominated getting all Top-5 spots and with Brooke's fantastic results in Salt Lake City, her extreme progress also in Lead, puts her as one of the top challengers to Janja in Tokyo. (c) Vladek Zumr

1. Janja Garnbret SLO TOP
2. Brooke Raboutou USA 40
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 33+
4. Viktoria Meshkova RUS 22+
5. Miho Nonaka JPN 22+

Finalists are; Garnbret, Rogora, Raboutou, Rakovec, Lukan, Meshkova, Noguchi and Nonaka.
Ondra, Gines Lopez, Schubert, Lehmann, Potocar, Megos, Higuchi, Dhisolfi.
Follow the results on the "IFSC WC Series" App.

Very hard and technical semi final route, mainly on crimpers attached to volumes, made several climbers struggle from the start. Laura Rogora touched the top jug but had been timed out so Janja Garnbret won one hold ahead of Laura. Among the male, Adam Ondra won the semi one hold above Alberto Gines López, some six holds from the top. All the big names made it through to the final Top-8 but Tomoa Narasaki #9. (c) Vladek Zumr

Male results and Female results. You can also follow the results on the "IFSC WC series" App. The routes were said to be 8b+ for the female and 8c/+ for the male. Interesting to see that some of the bolts are covered with non friction holds. The female final start 20.00 followed by the male final at 21.00.

Ogata Yoshiyuki, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret and Brooke Raboutou won their respective groups in the Boulder qualifications in Innsbruck. Among the male, Japan had six guys in Top-10 and among the girls, they had five in Top-13.

In total, 114 males participated out of which 76 did not make one Top including Jernej Kruder, Sean Bailay (winner in SLC) and Olympian Alberto Gines Lopez.

One reason for the big discrepancy in the results is that the best start first with fresh holds and colder temperature. If you do not have any ranking points, the starting order is randomised so you need some luck to not start among the last.

One possibility to reduce the number of participants could be to only allow two or three athletes per nation that are not ranked. Currently, five climbers per country are allowed to participate.

On the new 8a Games feature, you can predict the top 5 male and female athletes at the 2020 Tokyo Games. You can edit your prediction anytime leading up to the start of the competition. Currently, nearly 85% of the participants agree that Janja will win the gold medal. This is also your chance to outdo Jens with your prediction! :-)

Once the official results are announced, each ranking you predicted correctly will earn you 100 points and one ticket towards the raffle. If you are among the participants with the most points, you will be entered into the raffle for the Adidas grand prize. All participants receive a one-month Vertical-Life Premium voucher, providing you with an extensive digital guidebook library, just in time for a summer road-trip!

The Olympians got all Top-3 in the qualification in Innsbruck and only Petra Klingler #38 and Jongwon Chon #49 had relatively poor results. The biggest positive surprise was Olympian Collin Duffy (17) #6 and Aleksandra Totkova (16) #8. (c) Vladek Zumr

1. Adam Ondra CZE - Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Jakob Schubert AUT- Laura Rogora ITA
3. Alex Megos GER - Brooke Raboutou USA
4. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA - Vita Lukan SLO
4. Domen Skofic SLO - 5. Lucka Rakovec SLO


Noteworthy is that on the second male route, getting 18+ meant you were tied #42 but without the +, you dropped to #70. Complete results

Matt Fultz has done his third 8C+ the last year, Grand Illusion in Little Cottonwood Canyon. During several Insta posts, including videos, he has reported his progress since April 11th, "Might get obsessed with this one 😤".

Already two weeks ago he posted that he had done his 12th session and that he thought it had to wait until this autumn. Then two days ago, "95 degrees today 🥵 doesn’t cool down enough even at midnight. I know I should bail to Colorado and come back for Grand Illusion in the Fall, but I’m too darn stubborn."

His last post commenting having done it. "Grand Ill is pretty much the only problem I’ve tried since early April. It was quite a fight to gain the specific fitness required for this boulder/sport climb hybrid. Pacing, precision, and micro-beta needed to be so dialed in for me. And of course, as usual, the long fight ended in a pretty casual first try of the night burn."