NEWS

Chaehyon Seo (17), who has been Top-3 in all of her previous seven World Cups, was the only athlete to top out both the qualification routes in Moscow. Natalia Grossman, Laura Rogora and Lucka Rakovec were runner-ups topping out one route each. Among the male, Tomoa Narasaki won the qualification ahead of Hamish McArthur and Kokoro Fujii, who was the only male topping a route. Complete results

1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)

1. Natalia Grossman USA 44 (7)
2. Camilla Moroni ITA 44 (13)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 24
4. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 23 (2)
5. Brooke Raboutou USA 23 (3)
6. Andrea Kรผmin SUI 13
Complete results

Zimalis Alexandra 8A+ by Karoline Sinnhuber
karoline sinnhuber has done her 34th 8A+, Zimalis Alexandra in Silvretta and there is a great video on her Insta. In the 8a ranking game, the former competition climber is #3. "Nice one! Morphooooo, but climbs nice with the short girl betaโ€˜. Left crimp needs so much skin :(" (c) Fabian Leu

Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a by Gianluca Vighetti (13)
Gianluca Vighetti, who two weeks ago become the youngest in the world to have done a 9a, has done the Puro Dreaming 8c+/9a in Arco.
"Last weekend, after TCT (9a) went to Arco to try Puro Dreaming. I thought that route would have been kinda my style because it is endurance with good rests in between. After my first try, I understood that it was absolutely possible and easier than TCT. Today the weather was terrible, all the holds were humid. Anyhow, on my first try, I fell higher than all previous attempts but the hold was completely wet, so I tried to dry it with some paper towels and it worked. Two hours later I did it in the rain. I'm really happy because I did this dream line in only two weekends."

What are your plans for this autumn and winter?
Maybe Thunder ribes 9a. It starts with Puro Dreaming's first crux and then there is a boulder at the end. This Winter at Sessi, a crag near my house, there are some bouldery routes that I want to free, from 8b+/8c to maybe 9a I also think that Pure Dreaming plus (9a+) is possible but really hard.

Team frisouille 9a+ FA by Mathieu Bouyoud
Mathieu Bouyoud has done the FA of Team frisouille 9a+ in La Balme. "It is a very old technical project bolted by Cyrille Bouchard, a local climber. It is 30 meters long and shares the first five bolts with an 8c. I tried it for the first time in 2013 and since I have tried it every September when it is all dry and have cold conditions. So happy to finish the job ๐Ÿ™"

Previously, the 31-year-old has done 27 9a's and one 9a+. The latter was a FA he did in 2015, which is still unrepeated and that goes also for some of his 12 9a FAs.

Kokoro Fujii wins the Boulder gold
Kokoro Fujii was the only one topping the first boulder. In fact, he flashed it at the same time no other did get the zone. Then, after he had done the following two boulders in just three attempts, he had secured the gold. Runner-up was Tomoa Narasaki getting three tops followed by Manuel Cornu with two tops. Fujii has previously won four World Cups between 2016 - 2018. (c) Dimitris Tosidis/IFSC

1. Kokoro Fujii JPN 44
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 33
3. Manuel Cornu FRA 23 (2)
4. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 23 (7)
5. Nimrod Marcus ISR 2 (9)
6. Anze Peharc SLO 2 (10)

19 September 2021

Male finals

Three days of climbing, yoga, film screenings and live music, a true celebration of mountaineering culture. Siurana Climbing Festival is a great opportunity to enjoy this rock climbing paradise with the community. Tickets on sale here.

19 September 2021

Narasaki wins the semi

Tomoa Narasaki made three tops in seven tries during the semifinal which was one attempt less than Manu Cornu in second place. The other four qualifying to the finals, 16.40 Euro Time, were; Nimrod Marcus, Kokoro Fujii, Anze Peharc and Alexey Rubtsov. Noteworthy is that Japan got four males in the Top-10. Complete results