NEWS

Esclatamasters 8c+/9a by Moritz Welt
Moritz Welt has done a quick ascent of Escalatamasters 8c+/9a in Perles & Canelles. "5 tries. crazy rock quality and some of the sharpest crimps I know on the upper half, lost lots of blood on the send^^ honestly, idk about the grade, so I'll just give it a personal 8c+/9a."

How come you have mainly focused on "easier" routes this trip? (Ten 8b+ and harder in three weeks)
Well, I broke my foot in January and wasn't climbing for two months so the first two weeks were mostly about getting back in shape. On the other hand, I started projecting some harder stuff about 1 week ago ;)

How did you break your foot?
I was bouldering in Ticino and had a bad fall

During the qualification and the female semifinal, pictures of the boulders were visible in the isolation. Alex Megos, who was one of the climbers officially saying this was wrong, took it one step further.

"I spoke to the IFSC officials yesterday evening and told them that the athletes don't want the pictures to be put up in semis. And they listened. So the guys didn't have any pictures in semis today."

Japan male double in Meiringen
In a very exciting final, Toma Narasaki won ahead of Yoshiyuki Ogata both from Japan. Narasaki was second last out on the last boulder and by topping it he moved him from sixth to first position. Last out was Kokoro Fujii, who won the semi, with a chance of winning by topping it but as he could not even reach the zone, he was sixth.

All boulders were topped at the same time as everyone but Colin Duffy failed one zone. The third boulder was only done by Paul Jenft and Duffy but they needed 12 and 19 attempts respectively, to reach the zone and then they both continued directly to the top. Complete results

From IFSC; โ€œI feel that the energy of the audience generated my power and finally I could reach the top. That was an amazing moment for me!โ€ said Narasaki. โ€œThe target for this season is quite obvious for me โ€“ to be a third time overall [Boulder] champion. I found today that the style of Boulder routesetting seems to be more dynamic, so maybe I need to make some adjustments for the coming competitions,โ€ he added.

Japan dominate the semi
Five from Japan Top-9 with Kokoro Fujii and Tomoa Narasaki the only ones doing all four boulders.

New rule: Pictures of boulders in the iso
Pictures of the boulders were shown in the isolation during the boulder qualification and semi, based on the new rule: "A photograph or sketch of each Boulder may be shown in the Isolation Zone or in the Transit Zone for the relevant boulder."

This has upset some climbers and Alex Megos and Stasa Gejo have posted a statement, not written by them, on their Instas. We asked Megos for some further comments.

"I don't think they have a clue what the new rule is yet. I just talked to an IFSC official and the idea behind it was to make it fairer for athletes. They wanted to avoid athletes having seen the boulders during setting up have an advantage. Usually, that only is the case for lead comps though (Chamonix for example). So it doesn't really make sense for bouldering. Plus it makes it not fair right now because some people have more time to study the pictures and athletes with coaches can talk about the boulders with experienced people. Athletes without coaches do not have that opportunity."

Was the downward jump rule broken?
According to the IFSC rules, "Each boulder should be designed without any downwards jump." From the highlights video (min 2.02 to 2.14), it seems that Janja Garnbret makes downward jumps on both boulder 3 and 4. Prior to the comp this was mentioned by both athletes as well as the judges to the officials without any action.

Superior performances from Garnbret #1 and Grossman #2
Janja Garnbret won the Meiringen World Cup ahead of Natalia Grossman and they were both leaps and bounds ahead of the rest of the field. Overall, Janja did all 13 boulders and in the final, she only needed five attempts. Natalia managed ten boulders overall out of which three in the final. Andrea Kรผmin, #6 in the WCh last year, got the bronze pleasing the home crowd, doing one boulder as also Oriane Bertone #4 did. Noteworthy is that they did only six boulders overall as also #5 Futaba Ito and Stasa Gejo #6 did. Complete results (c) Jan Virt/IFSC

From one point of view, the boulders seemed to be a bit too hard in the last two rounds at the same time, Janja probably could have done just as many even if they had been a bit harder. Prior to Meiringen, Janja had been in Oliana projecting the endurance monster La Dura Dura 9b+.

From the IFSC newsletter, โ€œTodayโ€™s win was a privilege. It means a lot to me because itโ€™s not obvious that you will win every competition โ€“ each competition is a story in itself. Just because you won everything last year doesnโ€™t mean that you can next year, so every win means a lot to me. Thatโ€™s why I was so emotional!โ€ said Garnbret.

โ€œIโ€™ve decided to skip the [rest of the] Boulder season this year. The Olympics last year were a pretty hard take on physical and mental preparation, so I feel that I need a little time off from comps and this year is the perfect year to do that. I already have [the Olympic Games in] Paris in mind!โ€ she added.

Garnbret wins semi
9 April 2022

Garnbret wins semi

Janja Garnbret topped out all four boulders in the semi in just six attempts. Runner up was Natalia Grossman with three Tops and then nine girls made two tops with Oriane Bertone scoring best with four zones which also Stasa Gejo made. Ayala Kerem, who won the qualification together with Garnbret, ended #17 in the semi. Complete results

The womenโ€™s Boulder semi-final will take place tomorrow at 11:00 AM (UTC+2:), while the final is scheduled at 6:00 PM. The male semi-final starts on Sunday at 11:00 (UTC+2) and the final begins at 4:00 PM. How to watch the semi and final..