Iris Bielli has repeated Stefano Carnati’s Endangered (8c) in Canzo. “The climbing is technical on small, slippery holds that require cold temperatures and crispy air. On Saturday, I finally found the perfect conditions and was able to climb this beautiful line. (8 tries in total).”

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 14 after practising artistic gymnastics for several years. Initially, I only used to go climbing at the crag and in the gym, but then, after three years, I discovered multi-pitch climbing and became passionate about it. I like visiting new places and experiencing the feeling of freedom and emptiness under my feet while climbing big walls. I currently study Environmental engineering at university and in my free time I mostly enjoy onsight climbing and challenging myself on slab and technical routes.

William Bosi has sent Sleepwalker (8C+) in Black Velvet Canyon. It was set up as an 8C+ in 2019 by James Webb and the grade was confirmed multiple times until Zander Waller found a new sequence and gave it 8C. After Bosi having sent it on his first go on the third session, he thinks it was an 8C challenge for him. ”Incredible boulder! So psyched to send this king line! Now onto the sit.”

The Sit is Daniel Woods’, not yet repeated, Return of the Sleepwalker (9A).

Pietro Vidi has had a great start of 2024 in Valle Bavona by first repeating 4-Low (8C) and later doing the FA of Captain Nemo (8C), which is a sit start to Finding Nemo (8A+). ”Mega line! Still unsure about the grade as it went down pretty quickly, time will tell! New Classic for sure! Props to Dave [Graham] and Giul [Cameroni] for the vision.”

Miho Nonaka, who 24 times has made the World Cup podium, has done Buttermilker Sit (8B).

Coudert Camille, who two years ago completed Soudain seul (9A), has done La Picharete (8C) in Fontainebleau. ”I did this boulder last week as well as two 8B’s and Satan i Helvete Bas. I put aside my big project for a week just to free my mind. The 8C is a boulder opened last year by Nico Pelorson. It begins with a very hard finger and foot 8B crack with six moves. It ends with an 8A compression based on seven movements.

What is your ”big project”?
Imothep sit, which is probably the biggest project in Fontainebleau. It is a sit start to the classical Imothep (8A).

How much effort have you put in?
I think a little less than 40 sessions. I’ve been trying it since last winter. I train specifically in the gym on similar efforts, but I don’t have a replica of the boulder. It has been tried by many climbers for 15 years but without any real effort. I am projecting it together with Nico Pelorson. I am currently missing the 2nd move which I hope to succeed soon. Starting in the position just after this move I fall at the last movement to join the standing start.

Are we talking 9A or even 9A+?
I have little experience at this level. If I compare to Soudain seul and to Alphane, which I tried four days last year, I would say that the imothep sit is a good notch above. It is too much to say it’s 9A+ but the boulder is probably a hard 9A or even a soft 9A+.

Luca Bana, who started 2024 by doing Supercrackinette (9a+), has sent Alta marea (9a) in Mediterranea .

”Back from the successful trip to France, I got my hands again on some unclimbed projects near home. One of these is "Alta Marea", a powerful overhanging 20 meter line located in a secret spot still under development. Taking advantage of my good shape at the moment, I managed to send it in a few sessions, with a big fight high up against the severe pump. It's always inspiring, at least for me, to get involved on routes yet to be freed. Well, let's move to the next one!”

Stefano Carnati has done Xaxid hostel (9a) in Mišja Peč. ”Great long route with a heinous sequence on slippery holds close to the start and several other low-percentage moves higher up. Not over until the end. Sent during a cloudy and cold day.”

Last year, the Italian did his first year 9b as well as an 8C+ graded boulder problem. Currently, he lives in Slovenia and he's in his 2nd year of PhD studies in environmental and chemical sciences.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I belayed some of my friends on the route and it immediately caught my eye. So, after Christmas break I decided to start trying! I quickly felt good on the movement, but the crux at the begin was giving me troubles on redpoint. Fortunately, once I made it through I managed not to make mistakes or get too pumped in the upper part, even though it is still hard with several risky movements. Overall it required 14 tries over 4 sessions. It’s a beautiful long route and hopefully it will see more ascents in the future, although it’s definitely a bit more demanding in respect to the other two 9as in Misja Pec!

Francesco Berardino reports on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Dave Graham's Celestite (8C+) in Valle Bavona. (c) High Video & Media Production

"I tried it a lot with Dave Graham when he did the FA last year but his kneebar solution was impossible for me. Giul [Cameroni] found a blind foot which makes it easier for me."

After completing Celestite, the 20-year-old went to Innsbruck for ten days and did multiple double session days on the spray wall with friends. Three days ago, he repeated Giuliano Cameroni's REM (8C+) and yesterday he sent Yannick Flohe's Return of the Dreamtime (8C+), both in Cresciano.

Of the three 8C+'s you just did, which one do you find the most challenging?
REM is the hardest one for me. You need to be super precise on very sharp crimps. I tried it a lot last year but after Innsbruck, I felt light and could do it in the first session. The other two are easier and for me possibly hard 8C's. I also did some replica training of Return... and that might reflect my feelings. All three boulders are super good.

How many 8C and harder have you done now?
I do not know. I do not keep track. My first was The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C) but this is probably 8B+ due to new knee bar beta. Grades are not important for me and I still say The Story was my first 8C as I climbed it in the 8C style.

Are you climbing full time now?
I have been a full-time climber since I finished school like 1.5 years ago. Last autumn I spent a couple of months with Dave and Giul and we just climbed and this is what I want to do. I do not work and my parents help me out with gas etc. I get some free climbing gear but I do not have any sponsors. I just want to climb. My hero is Bruce Lee, "Be like water, flawless and shape less."

Have you lined up a new project for yourself?
I would like to repeat Shawn's [Raboutou] The Story of the Three Worlds [8C+].

Lucy Mitchell has been on a trip to Aix-en-Provence where she managed to send Darwin dans la cave (8c).

”This year was a bit of a comeback trip for me. Last December I had a nasty fall and broke my kneecap quite badly so it was my first time back outside. It was just the best being back on rock and getting moving again!

I wanted to try some routes that I had been on last year before the accident. La rose et le vampire (8b), in the picture, and Sur les épaules de Darwin (8b+) were my two main projects. After a ‘small’ battle just after the last draw of La rose (7 drops!) it finally gave in 😊

Sur les épaules de Darwin (8b+) was much more my style (long and pumpy) but with a really hard boulder at the start that I struggled with. After a few days of trying the boulder and getting very pumped on the upper section, I finally got through it and luckily had built up enough fitness and did not fall off the top!

Darwin dans la cave (8c) is a cave extension to the above. 6 bolts in a horizontal roof and then into the pumpy shared top. Luck was on my side again and the first time I made it through the roof I did not drop the top! This was my favourite ascent, fighting all the way! The perfect way to finish the trip!”

Hard is Easy has published an interesting video that compares various scenarios and techniques for ensuring soft catches.