Vojta Trojan, with eleven 9a’s under his belt, has completed La moustache qui fâche (9a+) in Entraygues.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 9a+?
The route is pure power endurance with just a few places to shake. You basically start and never stop until the anchor. There’re some cruxy sequences, but overall it’s quite consistent eventho the last few meters are slightly easier. In total there is around 40 moves.

I still managed to fall in the last “easy part” 3 times. Somehow it’s not so easy after the whole route haha! I’ve been trying the route already last summer and felt quite close to send. This year I felt the same, but still I couldn’t succeed. In the end I felt I wouldn’t do it even this year. On the last day of 3 weeks trip and on the last try I managed to send the route. It’s crazy how the pressure helps sometimes. In total it took me something around 25 days to finish this route, but honestly I stopped counting a long time ago :D

I’ve been chasing this grade for a long time and it’s huge relief to know that I got what it takes. There’s been a lot of ups and downs, lots of doubts and failures. But yeah.. in the end I managed to send an amazing route in amazing place and I experienced so much and that’s what matters!

Also Huge shoutout to my friend Jáchym Cink who sent the route just few days before me! I would like to thanks to my sponsors and all the people who supported me on the journey and shared the process with me. Jáchym and Adrian for syke and betas in the route. And most of all to my girlfriend Lucie for believing in me and her endless support! Without you it wouldn’t be possible!

Samuel Watson sets a new Speed World Record in the seeding round with 4.75.

All four problems were topped in the Boulder final in Paris creating a great dramatic show. Sorato Anraku got 69.3 points and the lowest scorer were Alberto Gines Lopez and Adam Ondra with 24.1 points. In other words, anything can happen, at least for the medals, and Anraku is the big favourite for the gold.

Eva Hammelmüller has onsighted Le sommelier (8a+) and redpointed her fourth 8c during the last two weeks, Produit de la saume (8c), all in the Briançon region. ”Physical power endurance line (20 moves) on quite bad holds, far moves and delicate heel hooks. Really cool line which optically stands a bit in the shade of the other 8c’s, but feels just as good to climb!" (c) Felix Mast

Can you tell us more about the onsight and how close you were to fall?
I was saving this 8a+ for an onsight for a few days, but somehow I always felt too tired after some attemps in harder routes to give it a try. Yesterday, I decided to give it a go even though I had already done quite some routes before. I was lucky to get nearly all sequences right and could fight my way up!

In the first crux, I could not find good footholds for one move, so I decided to jump for the next hold. I didn‘t hit it perfectly, and it was everything but a jug, so that was pretty close😅

Alexandra Miroslaw from Poland lowered her Speed World Record first to 6.21 and then to 6.06 during the first rounds. Complete results and more comments in an IFSC article. ”Nine personal bests. Four continental records. Olympic record broken four times. World record broken twice.”

It took almost 90 minutes until we saw a top in the Boulder semifinal in Paris. In total, there were only seven tops, out of which, four were on the final slab problem. Sorato Anraku was the only one making two tops including a flash on the second problem which no other topped. The wildest celebration was done by Adam Ondra creating a special moment for the 7 000 spectators. As there were so few tops at the same time almost all high ranked athletes made the second 10 point zone on most of the four boulders, all the Top-8 final spots are still very open. Complete results.

Monday, 5 August (UTC+2:00): 10:00 – Men's semifinal Boulder: Results
Tuesday, 6 August: 10:00 – Women's semifinal Boulder
Wednesday, 7 August: 10:00 – Men's semifinal Lead
Thursday, 8 August: 10:00 – Women's semifinal Lead

Friday, 9 August: 10:15 – Men's final Boulder & 12.35 Lead
Saturday, 10 August: 10:15 – Women's final Boulder & 12:35 Lead

Sorato Anraku is the big favorite to win with 40 % of the votes in the Vertical-Life prediction. Complete Schedule including Speed. IFSC has published a conversation with Brooke Raboutou and there are many more interesting articles on IFSC, like a presentation of all Boulder & Lead athletes (from page 34).

Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Adam Ondra’s Valhalla (9a) in Flatanger. In total the 39-year-old has now done 35 routes 9a or beyond. (c) Adri Martínez

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I have been trying the route during two weeks. The main problem for me was handjam in the second pitch. It was stressfull to get there and slip or the jam or the feet. But finally every things works well. The picture is by the anchor after 50' of climbing during the send.

Michaela Kiersch continues striking in Rocklands by sending Amandla (8B+), using the original Fred Nicole jumping method, and Purple Nipple Clan (8A). (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about Amandla?
I was super close in the first session and even gave a convincing flash attempt. I spent a lot of energy making the top feel secure and couldn’t manage it the first day. It took 3 more sessions as I battled with split tips, tape, and skin that led to me dry firing up to the lip 4 times total before sending.

How has the first three weeks in Rocklands been?
I came with a super ambitious wishlist and of course there are so many more boulders here I’d like to try but I feel really proud of the ones I was able to send in such a short amount of time! I had to maintain super high motivation to make it work with the rain and my skin and I’m happy that I pushed myself.

The scenery is amazing, especially the beautiful sunsets every night. Even the night climbing is beautiful because you can see the milky way on a clear night. It's hard not to love it.

Victor Guillermin made the first repeat of David Lama's Avaatara (9a) last year, at age 17. "Avaatara, is very particular, because it is located near a 100m sinkhole, so the access to the base of the route is very scary and dangerous. This took me a lot of mental energy during the trip. During the first two sessions, I managed to do all the moves and some sections, but when I started real tries on the third day, I fell in the crux, a hard dropknee to a half crimp. I kept falling at this move 20 times in a row, during 5 sessions but finally, I found another beta, which was better for me, with heel hooks, two days before we took off to France.

On my last day, I felt better than ever, but conditions were really bad. It was windy, so the waterfall wet the holds and it rained a lot. But finally, probably on my last try, with a bit of sun, I managed to pass the crux and kept going to the anchor, with a huge fight and big screams! It was definitely for me one of my biggest fights and one of my proudest ascents!"