Laura Rogora has repeated Lorenzo Bogliacino’s Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione. The 23-year-old has previously sent well over 20 routes 9a to 9b and her ticklist is actually quite superior among the girls. (c) Carlo Giuliberti

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the ”unfinished business” you mentioned on Instagram?
I climbed here for 4 days and at the beginning, I tried Trainspotting (9a+). I unlocked all the moves and did the hardest section with one rest. On the second day, I tried Prima classe. I wasted a few tries by doing a harder beta and today I sent it on my first try of the day. Then I again tried Trainspotting and made some good attempts.

The crag is really cool, all natural and quite overhanging. The routes are funny, not so long with hard sections on small holds where power endurance is the key.

Two weeks before going to Rocklands, in the best shape of her life, Michaela Kiersch broke her pinky while trail running. Despite the injury, she kicked off her trip with a flash of two 7C+ boulders and sent an 8B—all using only three fingers on her left hand, as shown in photos on VL. Although we wanted to report this sooner, she asked us to wait until the trip concluded. In total, the doctor in hand therapy sent 15 boulders 8A to 8B+ during 13 climbing days.

Zach Galla sent Southern drawl (8C) in Chattanooga last January. In the Vertical-Life ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1, one point ahead of Will Bosi.

Mejdi Schalck, who did not make it to the Olympics because he was the third male to qualify from France, has sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. Last year, he got the silver in both the Boulder World Cup and in the World Championship. (c) Timothée Nitschke

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I arrived in Mallorca 2 weeks ago and the main goal of the trip was to send Es pontas. The first sessions were not easy as it was my first-time deep water soloing. I wasn’t able to climb completely relaxed, but after a few days on the island, I was feeling way better! I did the jump on my 4th sesh and then I sent the route on my 6th sesh, I fell many times on the very last crux of the route which gave me some trouble but after a big fight and a really good go I was able to send the route! I chose to jump with 2 hands at the end because it felt way easier for me, this was I think one of the biggest keys for my send.

How high up did you fall and how was it?
I fell many times on the last crux which is around 13 m and yeah it was ok!

Tyler Thompson, who since 2023 has sent six routes 9a or 9a+, has done Southern Smoke Direct (9a) in Red River Gorge (KY). "So stoked to do this one. Felt like maybe my hardest boulder ever! Adam [Ondra] flashing is beyond comprehension…"

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Basically, the route is a direct start to southern smoke, a classic 14c [8c+] bolted by Joe Kinder and established by Joe and Brad Weaver. That route involves a hard left traverse to avoid the bottom mostly blank panel. When Joe equipped the route, he also envisioned this direct start, which is a seriously different boulder problem into the existing route. Adam Taylor did the first ascent and thought maybe it could be 15a, but then Adam Ondra came and flashed the route and proposed solid 9a. The video of Adam flashing is one of the videos I used to obsess over (Red River Gorge the movie) and I always wanted to climb the route with the same method that Adam uses.

On my trips to the Red, I’d have one short session checking in on the moves of the boulder, but I never really felt like it was possible until last fall, when I had a breakthrough session and got close to doing the boulder. I came back this year a bit more focused and climbed the boulder on my second day and sent the route on my third day of the trip!

Melina Costanza, who the last week won the US Nationals in both Lead and Boulder, has done Green in the face (8B) in Castle Rock Proper.

Can you tell us more doing your second 8B?
I felt really strong competing in US nationals last week and was itching to get back outside, so I planned a trip out to Idaho with Alex Johnson. We’d never been here before, so it took us around an hour to even find the boulder, but I looked at in and immediately thought I could flash it. Tragically, I undershot the last hard move on my flash go, but I was able to pull on and send my second try.

What are your winter plans and what about competitions in 2025?
I’m relatively new to climbing outside, so my goal for this winter season is to try lots of different locations and rock types to see what I enjoy best! Afterward, I’ll be competing in US Team Trials next spring and, if I qualify, maybe some world cups next season.

Pierre Marzullo, who last year sent Supercrackinette (9a+), has done Anidalle tracteur (9a) in L'Abattoir. ”Pure beauty at home 😍 can’t wait to fight for the second pitch which is just perfect. 4 sessions to do this one spending my 2nd and 3rd sesh doing a shity betta, it went down after changing it ! Amazing moves and amazing rock.”

Laura Rogora has repeated Cody Roth’s Flipping Bird direct (9a) in Grottosauro. Seven weeks ago, the 23-year-old Italian won two golds in the European Championship. Since then, she has done six routes 8c to 9a (+), out of which one flash and one onsight, besides competing in four World Cups and the Arco Rockmaster. (c) Alberto Arre

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did three tries on tuesday and sent it on my first try the day after. The route start with an hard boulder followed by an easier pumpy climbing where you can still fall.

Hannes Van Duysen, who was #14 in the Olympics, has flashed Poseidon's Kiss (8c) and sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. His first ever DWS experience was trying the Chris Sharma classical line from 2006 and the 20-year-old sent it in just four sessions. (c) Yulen Calleja Ordiz

Can you tell us more about Es Pontas?
The big dyno was challenging but mentally the heal hook crux at the top was much harder as it is my antistyle. I actually tried to go for a harder physical solution but in the end, it was frustrating. Then Yulen advised on how to place the heel hook better and it was game on again.

The day of the send started with four tries not making the dyno and then I took a 1.5 h break and sent it, including making mistakes and being nervous at the top. What a great feeling topping out and remembering seeing the video of Sharma doing it like ten years ago.

What was your DWS personal best before Es Pontas?
I flashed the classical Loskot and two smoking barrels (8a+) and later I flashed Possidon’s kiss. I actually did not wear a chalk bag as I was so sure of falling. The first holds were wet due to high waves so I lost all my chalk and it became very hard but I could still send it with a good fight.

What are your plans for the winter and the next year?
First of all, I will start the winter training for next season. I am planning to start projecting Alphane. This is a boulder that makes me really psyched, I'm not sure if it will be this winter already but for sure in the near future. Then in 2025, I want to go back to Ratstaman Vibrations (9b). I tried it for the first time this summer and it is really one of the best things I tried, so if I have the possibility to go back there, I will go.

I will continue competing but I will make sure I will touch more rock. The Olympic experience was nice but hard and two years before Paris and especially the year before I climbed a bit less on rock.