Babsi Zangerl has set another new standard by doing the first flash ascent of Freerider (7c+) in Yosemite (CA), during a three-days push. The 34-pitch, 1,000-meter route achieved global fame with Alex Honnold's free solo ascent in 2017. In the realm of multi-discipline rock climbing, Babsi stands out as the leading female and ranks confidently among the Top 5 climbers overall, regardless of gender. Zangerl shares her thoughts of the flash. (c) Miya Tsudome for Highpoint Productions

”The first thing I should say is that I was really, really lucky!

There were hardly any other climbers on the route with us, the weather forecast looked bad but in the end it held up, conditions were actually very good and as we climbed upwards everything just seemed to slot into place. Jacopo was really unlucky. He was so close to flashing the entire route! He attempted to lead the Boulder Problem pitch before me, but didn't see the undercling hold properly and as a result fell on the famous karate kick move. He then quickly redpointed the pitch second go and didn't make any further falls. Thanks to Jacopo, I had more information about the crux and somehow managed to stick the moves, though I still haven't quite figured out how I managed not to fall there.

We hadn't consciously saved Freerider for a flash attempt, it just turned out this way. In the past, we've climbed routes in the center and on the right wall of El Cap, but never any of the routes on the left, such as Golden Gate, Salathé, and Freerider, because we were always a little afraid of the Monster Offwidth. We've heard so many horror stories about it that we've steered clear of this part of the wall. After our free ascent of The Nose in 2019, our friend and former Black Diamond employee Kolin Powick suggested we should try to flash Freerider. To be honest, we didn't think about it too much, simply because the idea seemed too impossible. Having said that, when Lara Neumeier and I climbed El Corazon in November 2023, we chose the Muir Blast start and not the Freeblast start, to avoid climbing any pitches shared with Freerider. So, I can say that, at that point, we did already have it in our minds as a future possibility.

Still, the idea of a successful flash ascent seemed unrealistic to achieve. This season our aim was just to see how far we could get. Perhaps we wouldn't even get very far at all. That's the problem with El Capitan: even the pitches which on paper look easy, are never easy! Actually, there's nothing easy on El Cap! After climbing Magic Line on this trip, we both realized that if we wanted to stand a chance of climbing the Monster Offwidth, we'd have to train specifically for it. So, we spent 4 days doing just offwidths like Generator Crack, Twilight Zone, and others, until we started to feel a bit more comfortable with this style of climbing.

It was a real battle! The ‘Monster Offwidth’ pitch is 60m long and after about 40 meters I started getting cramps and ran out of breath! I thought I'd fall but then I remembered what Alex Honnold had told us: if the going got tough, I should lean out so the left leg got solidly jammed in and I could rest a little. Thank god we'd met him by chance in a cafe a few days earlier for that bit of advice!

On day 1, we swung leads and climbed the Freeblast slabs past the Heart Ledges to the pitch below the Hollow Flake, where we made our first bivy. On day 2, we pushed on past the Monster Offwidth to the El Cap Spire, climbed another two pitches, fixed ropes and returned to the spire for the second bivy. On day 3, we jumared up the two pitches we'd climbed the day before, pushed on to the Round Table, climbed and fixed one more pitch before spending our third night on the wall, then on day 4 we jumared that one pitch and climbed the last three pitches to the summit. Our deal was that I would lead the Monster Offwidth first and Jacopo would go first on the crux Boulder pitch, which I also led right after, and we swung leads on all the rest.

After the Boulder Pitch, I felt nervous. I certainly didn't feel as if it was all over, on the contrary. The first section up Freeblast had already been stressful, and now somehow we were on course to the summit. But the famous Enduro Corner still lay above us, and that proved really pumpy. And we knew from experience that even the easy pitches can be really demanding. We really had to fight all the way to the summit! I view this, like all of the other climbs I've done with Jacopo, as a successful team ascent. Without him, nothing would have been possible and I'm infinitely grateful to him that we managed to pull it off. Although we hadn't climbed any of the 30 pitches before, and onsighted many of them, we nevertheless knew a lot about the route before setting off. We know many climbers who have repeated the route before us and so we tried to find out as much as possible from them, and of course, we'd seen some stuff on YouTube before. We also went to the cinema to watch Free Solo when that came out. So there's no way we could define our ascent as anything close to an onsight.

When we got to the summit it felt unreal. I was happy for me, and at the same time sad for Jacopo. Climbing onsight or flash is like this, you only get one chance, and on a 1000m big wall this can feel even more brutal. But Jacopo took it in his stride and his unwavering, 100% support all the way to the top was fundamental. It's a true testament of his character, and as I said before, I can't thank him enough. It was certainly the biggest mental challenge I've ever faced in my climbing career."

Staša Gejo, with twelve IFSC senior podiums under her belt, has done One Piece (8c) in Frankenjura. In 2017, she claimed victory at both the European Championship and the World Games, with her most recent podium finishes occurring in 2023. In the years between, the 27-year-old also secured two bronze medals at the World Championship.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing life?
I'm good, trying to balance full time work, training and going outside, but so far it seems that my adapted routine also works well.

The route consists of two intense cruxes. I do the lower one a bit dynamically to avoid pulling on a mono. The upper part requires insane precision in body positioning and getting the holds perfectly. It took me two sessions (spread apart by 2 months) to figure out the moves and details. I could send it just after warmup on the third session.

I was lucky with the crisp and sunny weather, not too cold for the rope sends and I simply had to use the opportunity to go out and climb nice routes ☺️ The sector itself (Teufelsrissmassiv in Schlaraffenland) is very interesting with unevenly shaped holds and a slight touch of blue and pink rock.

What are your winter plans and what about comps in 2025?
I am moving from Munich to Nürnberg for work in January, which will also allow me to be more often in Frankenjura. There are some great gyms and passionate climbers to train with here. With comps I can't say much yet, but from what I know and feel, I will be more often on the rock then on the mats next year.

What is your new job, and what is your educational background?
HVDC control and protection engineer. This is high voltage DC power transmission across great distances, which are inefficient for the classical 3 phase AC transmission. I'm an electrical power engineer.

Niki Rusev, who was #7 in the European Combined Championship two months ago, has made the FA of Kuche Marka (9a+) in Karlukovo. ”One of the hardest things I’ve ever done, crazy line and crazy process. I’m so happy I climbed the first 9a+ in Bulgaria. When I was trying it I was sure this route has the potential to be something harder than 9a. The grade wasn’t important anymore because what I wanted was to send this route exactly, not any other 9a+ but this one.”

Can you tell us more about the send and the process behind?
This is definitely a reminder to myself to never give up, because last year I almost did 😅. Prohodna cave itself is very famous with ,, The eyes of god’’ (two wholes on the roof of the cave that look like eyes). It’s a big tourist destination but also for climbing. It all started when @fazabrushes bolted three new lines on a small sector around the corner of the cave in 2020. In 2022 we decided to try the ,,easiest one’’ and at first I remember I was not enthused to try hard because I couldn’t do half of the moves but a few weeks later I did them all. It’s crazy how much less time you have in one season to try it in good conditions. In 2023 I spent around 2 months on it but there was so much rain and it just didn’t go⛈️☔️😔.

The first session of this season was different, this time I felt stronger on the crimps and the body memory made its job and quickly got back on track with some good links. I had strength to make only one good try for a day, so I usually arrived early on the route, warm up and try ones before the sun comes up because it’s impossible to climb during the shines, even after the sun comes down. The route stays warm and later on in most of the times comes some kind of moisture that bothers me. I knew it was about good conditions and today everything was perfect. This time it just happened 😌.

Moritz Welt has made the FA of Straight Flush (8B+) and done the first repeat of Low Life (8C), both in Frankenjura. The 23-year-old has previously done some 20 boulders 8B+ and harder as well as over 20 routes 9a or 9a+. (c) Tobias Iding

Can you tell us more about those two ascents?
'Straight Flush' is a linkup of two existing Boulders, the first half of Royal Flush (8B+), which I did the FA of in 2019, second half is the classic Hips don't lie (8B). After doing 'Royal Flush' I wasn't very motivated to come back and do the remaining link, but then a friend convinced me to join him on a session there. Refreshed the moves a bit and did it in a few tries.

'Low Life' was my main project last winter. It is a 4-move sitstart addition to the classic 'Forget about life for a while' 8A+/B. The start itself could be 8B and the whole thing is probably one of the hardest boulders in Frankenjura. Moritz Perwitzschky did the impressive FA in 2021 and since then nobody else could do it. This season, to my surprise, it took me only one more session. About one hour of relearning all the moves and 2 ground attempts.

Matilda Söderlund sent Niemisis (9a) last year after projecting it for some 50 days at the site. "I built a replica of the route at my gym. I set the two start boulders on the boulder wall and the crux on the moon board (divided into 3 boulders). I also did intervals on the moon board on boulders close to my max level. I’m satisfied with the results of the training 😊 I also feel much stronger in general now than when I first tried the route in 2021."

Michaela Kiersch, who two weeks ago completed Dreamtime (8C), has done La Pelle 8A/+ and The Dagger (8B+) in Cresciano. The Doctor in hand therapy broke her pinky in July. Since then, she has done some 20 boulders 8A and beyond. (c) Kevin McNally

Can you tell us more about The Dagger and what about the 8C sit start?
This boulder was extremely hard for me — my complete anti style. It took everything in my body to stay on and I think I held my breath the whole time. I’ll be sore for days. I couldn’t do the moves on my first trip here 2 years ago so it’s cool to come back and send it. I'd love to try the sit!

Hyeong Cheol Kim, with two 8c’s under his belt, has done Underground (9a) in Arco.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 9a?
I was born in 1986 in Korea and I started climbing after I was discharged from the military in 2008. It's late to start, but I want to achieve many dream lines. I am the father of two daughters now.

A few years ago, I wanted to try the dream lines that I had seen on YouTube and I went to one or two places every year, including Kalymnos, Rodellar, Margalef, Santa Linya, Ceuse, and this winter, Arco. I just saw and touched the dream lines. This was the first time that I actually tried and succeeded with the goal.

My goal was always 9a or 9a+ but I didn't do well. I felt that I got better and better through many trips and I felt that my skills got better this year.

Underground is one of my dream lines. When I first saw Tomas Mrazek on YouTube, I really wanted to do it, and it became a reality. In a very short time. I was first time Arco and I only had a week. I just wanted to check the moves, but it was my style and I quickly finished it Unbelievable! Luckily!

How does a normal training week look like?
I work out on the spray wall on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, and I do outdoor climbing on Sundays. Two sessions a day, 2-3 hours per session.

Matjaz Zorko, who in 2022 sent three 9a’s, has after some 20 sessions, completed Xaxid hostel (9a) in Mišja Peč. (c) Peter Kocjan

”I’ve started projecting Xaxid this year in spring, but unfortunately I’ve run out of time to finish it before summer. This endurance masterpiece suits me quite well even though it has a quite hard boulder in the lower part. I was falling there for the last few sessions, every time one move further. Once I passed the crux I managed to remain focused and clip the chains without extra drama in the top part. For sure it’s my hardest route so far. Now I can finally focus on other project in Istria without being a slave of Misja pec. :D”

How come was this your first hard route in 2024?
Well last year I sent Človek ne jezi se L2 (8c+), which was my nemesis for three seasons because the style really doesn’t suit me😅 and now I have only really hard routes left to send in Slovenia, which will take some time to project and finnish :)

Alex Johnson has sent Social Distortion / Blood Meridian (8B) in Buttermilks. Eighteen months ago, she tore her ACL during a basketball game. Prior to that, she had completed 21 boulders graded 8A+ or 8B. Between 2008 and 2010, she claimed victory in two World Cups and finished as runner-up twice. (c) Bobby Sorich

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This was one of the things I was most excited about in returning to Bishop. In part because it’s a crimp test piece, and honestly also because it’s a drop off. I’ve been having mental blocks with trying hard even a little bit off the ground since my ACL surgery, having had a lot of complications and setbacks.

It felt amazing to feel like myself again, and completely check into the present of only focusing on grabbing holds and doing moves as opposed to being distracted by thinking about falling. I needed this as a reminder that I can still climb hard! Onward from here.

Do you know why the boulder has two names?
The climb was FA’d by Matt Birch who called it Social Distortion 8B. Later someone else repeated it, maybe not knowing Matt had already done it first, and called it Blood Meridian 8B.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo sent Move (9b) in September, two weeks after completing Change (9b+). "Dream line and my favourite in the cave. I will never forget this battle, 17 days of work in 2 months where I struggled with the condition, state of my skin and even more with all my emotions, to control all this and putting everything together feels like one of my biggest fights. Thanks Move for teaching me a lot and thanks to all the people that was part of this process, without their help this would have been impossible."