Théo Charmasson has repeated Camillle Coudert’s La Force Obscure (8C) in Fontainebleau.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It’s now the hardest problem in the Orsay roof since most famous line, « La Force »broke. I’ve been working on this boulder for a long time because I tried the 8B exit 6 years ago. Last year, I fell several times on the last move and injured my finger on it, but this year I finally got my revenge !

Jon Cardwell, who sent his first 9a almost twenty years ago, has done the first ascent of Tu Me Manques (9a) in Las Conchas. ”A very meaningful route to me. Dedicated to our dog, Peyton. A beautiful climb with intense and technical boulder problems throughout. Still unsure of the grade, maybe 9a/+, I need some help confirming some of the new routes!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
So yeah, this route is pretty special to me for a number of reasons. First of all, it’s actually an incredible line up a perfect tower feature. The wall itself about 40 meters tall (leaning tower in Las Conchas) is actually pretty significant for New Mexico climbing, hosting one of the first 5.13+/8b routes in the state (the later became harder due to holds breaking) and another 5.13/7c+ trad route.

People have looked that the line I bolted for many years but no one committed beyond that. This summer, my wife and I were climbing in the area and I went for a walk to look at the wall. Immediately I was inspired and had to get a closer look. Later that season I did a recon mission with some RB’s and was surprised that it was all there - of course with some small question marks but I figured I could sort it out. I bolted it, however during that process our 10 year old dog was diagnosed with an aggressive bone cancer. It was an incredibly difficult time facing end of life with her, making climbing emotionally challenging. She would come with us everywhere and the absence was really hard.

Eventually nature took its course and earlier this year I started trying the route again. After a handful of days I sorted my sequences and started making red point attempts. It didn’t take super long, about 6 or 7 days, but I think the route really suits my style (technical and bouldery power endurance). It also didn’t hurt that I did a ton of bouldering this winter up to 8B+ and working on some harder projects. I think that really helped my power and made things move faster.

Anyway, it came to a close after a huge fight on the crux, after that it’s not more than 8a so you can kind of relax and take it in. At the same time still need to stay focused. It’s a really cool balance. “Tu Me Manques” is a French term for I miss you, and it’s dedicated to Peyton.

Grades are always tricky and I’ve kind of been in my own little bubble down here searching out first ascents so my gauge may be a little off. However, most of my FA’s are still unrepeated! Probably due to a lot of them being in obscure places but I can’t wait to others to come and give their opinions.

I also thought about it a lot, you don’t see a ton of people in my generation bolting routes. Sure there definitely are some (adam, joe, Jonathan, Seb, etc) but most of the development we see is in bouldering, it makes me think that finding high end sport routes is actually pretty special and if we’re talking about 9b and above, incredibly rare. After all it’s been my goal since moving back to NM to bring 9a+ and beyond to my home state. It’s been a few years now and turns out it’s really hard to find those climbs! I thought this route might be it but I’m just not sure it breaks that barrier. However, I do have a couple more projects down south at another spot that I’m certain are much harder. Now that I’m done up here, my mission is simple.

Nicolai Užnik, who last year made a 9A first ascent, has during a solo session done the FA of Bügelbrett (8C+) in Maltatal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I’ve spent a lot of time at this boulder over the years - first with Bügeleisen, then the Sit, and over the past months working on this extension. “Bügelbrett” starts on the very bottom right and adds around 7 moves into “Bügeleisen”, with the intro itself being around 8B. The climbing is delicate, technical, and quite different in style from the original line, which makes it challenging to link everything together. Instead of fully committing, I took a different approach, just 1-2 sessions whenever I was home, staying patient and waiting for the right moment. That moment came unexpectedly. On the way down from Innsbruck, I stopped by for a solo session. With a good feeling from the start, things quickly came together. After passing my previous highpoint and dealing with numb fingers in the cold wind, I managed to somehow stick the final move and top out after an insane fight! “Bügeleisen” was first ascended by Klem Loskot in 2001, the Sit version by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014 - and now, more than 10 years later, I’m proud to contribute a small piece to the history of this legendary boulder!

Anna Kelley, who was 8th in the Youth World Championship last year, has done Euro Trash (8A+) in Little Cottonwood.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I had done the V10 [7C+] (Euro Roof) start back the in fall, but at the time the moves of the V12 [8A+] felt out of reach. With the weather being so nice in Utah, I really wanted a day outside on rock before the world cup season began, so I decided to go back and see how the moves on the 12 felt.

The crimp on the 10 has also broken twice since I last did it, but it honestly didn’t seem to change the difficult that much. I ended up learning the moves on the 12 pretty quickly, and was able to send after a few tries from bottom. I definitely want to come back in the fall for the V13 start!

Phoebe Kenderdine, with two 8b+’ under her harness, has done the first repeat of Venus in Furs (8c) in Fyfe River Gorge.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was bolted 14 years ago and got its first ascent at the end of last year. I was the second ascent. It took 5 weekend trips/9 sessions. For 4 of the sessions it was too damp to really try properly! It's a really cool line, 30-45 degrees overhanging and 20-25 meters long, it feels like 4 moonboards on top of each other.

It's the hardest climb I've tried, I wasn't even sure if I'd be able to do all of the moves when I first tried it, but managed to get it in just one hang on my third session which was pretty encouraging. It took the rest of the sessions to find the beta that works for me, which involved some fun heel hooks, kneebars, and very small crimps. It's a really unforgiving climb, if you make a small mistake you'll come off, so in the end, I think it was just finally having a good sequence and doing every move exactly right.

What is your climbing background?
I have been climbing for about 10 years, I started as a competition climber at the start of high school (age 13), competed for about 5 years, then started outdoor climbing and quickly fell in love with outdoor sport climbing, which I’ve been doing for about 4 years now.

I’ve done most of my climbing in Wānaka, where I got my first first ascent (Caffeine, 8b) in 2024. The past couple of years I’ve been exploring more of the crags in New Zealand, like Little Babylon, and I’m excited to go to Ceuse later this year.

Eva Hammelmüller, with seven 9a’s under her belt, has sent Goosfraba (8c+) in Arco. ”The route doesn’t look like much from the ground, but it’s such a great climb! The moves are tricky, technical, and fun. I didn’t use a kneebar in the crux, and to me, it felt more like 8c+. Maybe that’s because of the style, maybe I didn’t have the best beta, or maybe I’m just a bit weak right now, haha. Anyway, I had fun and hopefully improved my power endurance a bit!” (c) Paul Zauner

One week later, the 25year-old sent Tao (8c) in Ötztal. In total, she has now completed 32 routes 8c and beyond the last 12 months. ”Finally. My all time nemesis is done. This route is amazing, the location is incredibly beautiful, but one move in this route was just SO hard for me. And as much I love climbing on granite, sometimes it‘s simply morpho. For this route, it‘s hard if you‘re below 1.70m and if you‘re below 1.60m, I have honestly no idea how it should be done… maybe that‘s why it hasn‘t had a female ascent so far. Haha but enough whining, this route has taught me a lot over the past couple of years, and I‘m quite proud I managed to do it in my first session this season.”

What is next?
The plan is to climb and train around home during the next months to be ready for a big trip in summer!😇 Céüse is pretty high up on the list.

Jana Svecova did the FA of Tokyo Drift (8C) two weeks ago.

Iacopo Perelli Cazzola skips 8c+ and ticks Coup de Grace (9a) in Sonlerto, after projecting it for seven days. ”My first of the grade, and one of the most beautiful pitches I’ve ever seen. The only flaw is that after even a little rain, the pitch tends to seep a lot and takes quite a long time to dry. Unfortunately, a small injury and the almost constantly prohibitive conditions due to wet weather significantly extended the process. The consistently poor conditions, combined with the inexorable approach of summer, made the crux a real psychological test and one of the most challenging climbs of my life. Fortunately, the very physical style suits me well.

Despite the high difficulty of the first problem, the route remains more of an endurance climb, I think—at least for me it was, though perhaps I’m lacking in endurance. In particular, the final moves in the upper section must be done quickly to avoid getting pumped. From the rest to the final hold, the section still feels around a 7c/+ problem, but I could be mistaken. Thanks to my father, Filippo Rossi, Guglielmo Giorgini, Marzio, Viola Novaria, and all the others who couldn’t be here these days, but without whom this ascent wouldn’t have been possible.”

What is your climbing background?
I’m 21 years old. During my teenage years, I competed regularly in the Italian Cup circuit, which gave me a strong technical foundation and a disciplined approach to training.

Around the age of 18, I gradually shifted my focus toward alpinism. For about two years, I dedicated most of my energy to multi-pitch routes, trad climbing, mixed terrain, and ice climbing. That period shaped me significantly as a climber—it strengthened my decision-making, resilience, and composure in serious environments. It also led me to climb some of the “great minor classics” of the Alps, such as the North Face of Piz Badile and the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, to name just two that were particularly meaningful to me.

Last year, I gradually returned to sport climbing with a more structured mindset. In less than a full season back on rock, I was able to complete several routes that represented meaningful milestones for me. For me, that progression was less about grades and more about integrating the discipline of competition climbing with the mental strength I developed in the mountains. Right now, I’m focused on continuing along this path and progressing further at the 9a level with a long-term perspective.

Jules Marchaland has sent Ephyra (8C+) in Chironico. The 24-year-old stopped competing in July last year and then in a couple of months he sent six 9a routes and beyond as well as five 8C boulders including one flash. (c) Arthur Delicque

”Unexpected send. 3 days. Just stuck the pinch a few times. Never linked it before. And somehow finished it and made the top-out for the first time. So, so, so, so, so good. Such an amazing moment with friends.

What is next?
Back to routes. Maybe Ratstaman Vibrations (9b) or Biographie (9a+) in Céüse. But no endurance training since Madrid world cup, so getting back in endurance shape chill outside and a Fionnay trip for Permanent midnight low (8C+) and others stuff, good combo.