Ziga-zaga 9a by Jose Agustí (45)

22 September 2022

Jose Agustí, who did his first and only 9a in 2017, has done the FA of Ziga-zaga (9a) at Sant Miquel del Fai. "After 1 year working on this crazy line I completed the FA of this challenge. Thanks to all my dudes (Eudald, Diegos, Paco, Mateo, Fèlix, Blassi, Fran) and above all thanks to Olga Aniol and Elsa!!! Come on!"

Can you tell us more about this route?
It’s about 50 meter roof line. The name Ziga-zaga comes from its sinuosity when climbing you describe a Z. This line was tried firstly by Diego Marsella and it links the hardest and the best lines of this amazing roof sector situated 5km from Cova de l'ocell.

You start on Penjim penjam, a classical 8c till a rest, and then traverse without clipping any of the next 8 bolts. This second half of the route should be an 8c really physical but also psychological due to the fact of climbing 20 meters off this roof without clipping. Then you get to rest and clip. From there you can do the last part, an easy 8a with an active rest, and a pumpy end where I was close to falling...

Why did you skip eight clips?
In order to avoid rope friction. It is safe but you can fall about 15 meters and it is not possible to get back to the route... A little bit like a Psicobloc route...


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