Zangerl & Larcher do The Nose 8b+


Monday, 25 November

Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have done the 950m The Nose 8b+ in Yosemite. The 31 pitches straight up in the middle of El Capitan was first free climbed in 1993 by Lynn Hill, video as an 8a. Later it has been upgraded to 8b+. " It is totally crazy...for me she is a real inspiration... I couldn't climb it how she did it..." This was Zangerl's fifth and Larcher's fourth big wall on El Capitan. More info at her Insta. Babsi has pretty much done most of the hardest long multi-pitches in the world and she is well beyond the Top-10 in this category also including the male. Adding also sport climbing up to 9a, trad up to 8c and bouldering up to 8B, the Austrian is the best female overall rock climber in the the world. Noteworthy is that the 8B she did more than ten years ago being one of the very best in that discipline. Later, in 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. "It took us 6 days... we had heavy haulbags to haul. That made us so tired the first two days where we climbed and hauled a lot of pitches. So we climbed up to the Doll tower the first day. Second day we climbed to Great roof. Thrid day we both did the great roof. That is a really hard pitch. Very techy and pumpy on super bad footholds. Day four, we climbed up to changing corners...there we rested for a day! Changing corners are the Crux of the Nose!! It is very hard for the grade, I think. We both laybacked all the crux. It was hard to remember the body positions and footholds. Because there are not really is just smearing on nothing most of the time. Super powerful! That was the biggest challenge!!

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