Zander Waller sends Sleepwalker 8C (+)

Zander Waller has skipped two grades by repeating James Webb’s Sleepwalker 8C+ in Black Velvet Canyon. ”Really cool new beta, unfortunately it’s easier now, hoping for hard stuff in the future!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your thoughts about the grade?
I managed the ascent in three sessions this trip, plus one short session last trip when it was really hot and I could not do any of the moves. The beta I used skips the intermediate bump hold and goes to the sloper from the better undercling, effectively making the start of the boulder V13 instead of hard V14 or 15. I’m about 6ft [183 cm] with a +4 or 5 wingspan, so my beta is probably only feasible for a few guys. I think Benn Wheeler, Ethan Freudenheim, Simon Hibbeller, and a few other people would do really well with this beta, and I’m curious to see what other people think.

Concerning the grade, I’ve talked with a bunch of people and feel like V15 is how it felt for me. This beta was such a step down from the other methods, and there is no way that it can warrant V16. During my second session, I was really struggling with the old beta. I randomly stumbled upon this new method, and I was able to do the moves within 5 tries and ended up sending it fourth try from the ground.

Of course, this is just a suggestion, but I have a feeling that if other people can execute the same beta then it will get downgraded.

How's the 9A sit start?
I tried the sit for about an hour yesterday. It’s really hard! It will take a lot more training before I can even do all the moves, let alone send the boulder.