Yanik Chassain, 15, ticks Puro Dreaming 9a (8c+)

Yanik Chassain, Lead Youth European Champion in August and with 8b+ as his PB, has done Puro Dreaming (9a) in Arco. ”During my school vacation, I finally found some time for outdoor climbing in Arco, Italy, together with my dad. My friend Andrea (Chelleris) inspired and motivated me to try one of the harder routes in Massone.”

How was the process taking down your first 9a?
When I arrived in Massone, I was immediately drawn to the route Pure Dreaming. It looked like a steep endurance climb without any super hard crux — which turned out to be wrong. There was a really hard crux in the steepest roof section, already high up, after many pumpy moves! On my second go, I had a really good attempt, so I stuck with the same beta for a third try that day, but fell again in the same section. After a rest day (spent belaying my dad), I gave the route four more tries using the same beta. Each time I fell at the same point — so close, but I couldn’t hold the pocket after jumping into it and cutting loose with my feet. It was frustrating, and I started to doubt my approach.

During my third session, I decided to give the heel-hook beta another chance — the one I initially thought wouldn’t work for me. This time, I used a shoe with a more sensitive heel and focused on better footwork. Suddenly, it worked! I could stick the heel and link all the moves through the crux. On my ninth go, I gave everything. I stuck the heel, reached the pocket statically, moved on — but fell again, just two moves away from the final jug. I was really angry and disappointed, but I can be stubborn. I wanted one more try.

And that time, it finally worked! Maybe because I felt less pressure, I flowed through the route. I stuck the heel, easily reached the pocket with my left hand, clipped the draw in the steepest part, grabbed the edge hold, and after the last hard move to the jug on the right, I knew I had it. I stayed calm, avoided any mistakes, and finally clipped the chains — after ten goes in total. I’m super happy to have reached the 9a level, and very thankful for Andrea’s beta videos and for my dad’s endless patience belaying me for hours on that route!