5 July 2009

World Lead Championship

1. Patxi Usobiaga ESP 2. Adam Ondra CZE 3. David Lama AUT 4. Sachi Anma JPN 5. Sean McColl CAN 6. Valeriy Kryukov UKR 7. Cedric Lachat SUI 8. Tatsumi Nitta (17) JPN It was a great victory for Patxi who has got three straight silvers in the World Championships since 2003. During that period he has been superior in the World Cup and maybe this was his last chance before Adam will take over his crown. Five out of Top-8 are 8a members.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Another 9a by Patxi Usobiaga
Patxi Usobiaga has done his seventh 9a and harder the last four months, Fabela pa la enmienda in Santa Linya. Patxi is #1 in the world ranking with a new recordโ€ฆ
Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+. A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโ€ฆ
Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โ€ฆ