Work steep dynamic cruxes with rope drag

EDITORIAL

Friday, 26 February

Doing a steep dyno means that your feet cut loose and it is all about stopping the swing. The most effective way of doing so while working the crux is simply by having tight belay in order to reduce the swing. The belayer can then give more and more rope for each try, until you make it without assistance from the belayer. The advanced way of hanging on, with no rope drag, is by trying to raise the knuckles if possible. This is very difficult, although it is done more or less automatically by top climbers.

Once you try to send, you can make it easier for yourself by not skipping clips or making them too long, as this will reduce the rope drag from the friction of the quickdraws. It could also be wise to tell your belayer to not unclip the first drawer until you have passed the dyno crux.

From the other side of the coin, if the belayer creates rope drag by mistake as the rope gets stuck in the belay device or similar, such an ascent is invalid even if it is not your fault. You should, furthermore, not engage in tactical choices such as asking your belayer to stand far away from the first clip or clip directly into just one carabiner the whole way.

One could also bear in mind that a thin and new rope creates less rope drag than an older, thicker one.

Feeing out enough rope in the start could result in a ground fall or hitting the wall. From a safety perspective, it is thus ethically ok to have two or even three quickdraws pre-clipped in such situations.

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