27 March 2023

Will Bosi interview and updates from Burden of Dreams

William Bosi has been live-streaming three, out of five, sessions on Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams, 9A in Finland. He's making solid progress and he's also found some new beta. Toru Nakajima is also in Finland trying BoD for the fourth time and says, on Insta. "Honestly, I was somehow shocked at how strong Will is."Will recently decided to extended his trip and continues his battle. In this 8a ranking game, the 24-year-old is #1 with the highest score ever achieved in Boulder. (c) Band of Birds

How and how much time have you put into preparing yourself for, Burden of Dreams?
Overall I worked ten sessions on the replica before coming out. Currently, I am five sessions in on the boulder but the sessions are limited due to skin management as the granite is pretty brutal on my fingers! I can train on the boulder with tape but I think I will need all the skin I can get for the send!

What have you learned from climbing with Adam Ondra?
I think the overall takeaway from training and climbing with Adam is just sheer joy for all kinds of climbing. He is a master at so many different styles and despite all that he has achieved, his fire and love for training and climbing are as bright as ever. It is utterly inspiring.

What are your plans for 2023 and what would be your "burden of dream" ascents beyond this one?
[Yes,] Obviously right now my focus is on climbing Burden of Dreams in Finland but I am hoping to travel to the USA later in the year to explore some lines out there!

Could the comp scene and format change in any way that would make you, and perhaps even others more psyched to take part?
That is difficult to say as there is such a range of opinions on the comp scene at the moment. Fundamentally, as the profile of the sport rises, so does the pressure on athletes to succeed. I would most welcome focussed improvements on athlete wellbeing at all levels from grassroots through to senior level. Competitions should be a memorable and positive part of any athlete's career as opposed to something which could at worst make them fall out of love with the sport or cause lasting physical and mental harm.

Filmmaker, Matt Bird is in Finland with Bosi and adds, "So if you break down the 5 moves, he has done all the moves on the boulder so he is now on links. I saw him do the link from the end of the foot-walk to the top so just first move and foot-walk to tack on. All perfectly possible...and yet.... Honestly, from filming it, it is going to be a roll of the dice for whoever gets up it. (8a: Also Shawn Raboutou and Stefano Ghisolfi will be trying it this week). Everything from weather to skin, to shoe condition, to mentality comes into play and that is on top of immaculate technique and requisite strength. It's the perfect encapsulation of bouldering at the highest level for me. Impossible for people outside climbing to fully comprehend the madness of it all but utterly compelling for those invested in bouldering at the upper limits. He could do it this week or in three years time 😂 such is the nature of the game."
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