12 November 2019

Where does a boulder start?

Paul Robinson has published a video of him doing The Insurgency 8B+ in Joe's Valley. Later he was told that the boulder starts one move lower meaning that his 8B+ ascent is not valid and we asked him for a comment. "I was going to the insurgency which is just a random start on the wall. I asked some of the local climbers who told me they thought it started where I did. But I guess it starts lower one move. No matter where you begin it is a stand start." Personally, I think a boulder should start from the holds you reach. Sure there are many exceptions when it comes to hardcore boulders and especially sit starts. Furthermore, in rare cases, there are crunched starts from defined holds by the FA. The reason for defining starts is normally that the FA wants to maximize or adjust the difficulty from his capacity. Sometimes this creates confusion and even controversies like in this case. Personally, talking in general terms, it seems a bit contrived to add one move for a natural standing start but sure there are of course good reason also for this in unique cases. It is important to say that any person is allowed to start anywhere but on the other hand, possibly a new name and grade should be given once not doing the same challenge the FA set up. So possible Robinson did just Insurgency 8B in this case?
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