When the levee breaks 8A+ FA by Mie Kastet (37)
"The process... Well, I thought it looked cool and had an idea that it was climbable. So I cleaned it with a bit of help from my partner, Knut. Then started trying it in the spring of last year. Had to put it on hold due to warm temps in summer and a lot of wet weather in the autumn. Was bummed then, because progress was really good and I felt close to sending. Put the winter months to good use with some specific training (body tension, fingers and biceps😅) with help from Oli at Lattice training. Came back this spring and made a new high point on the first session, and became really psyched! It still took me a few more sessions, limited to a hand full of tries per session as the moves are super demanding and very specific. Also realised I needed more time to recover between each session. Not complete rest, just climbing on something else. I guess that actually helped get the ball rolling. 😂
As for the grade... We all know it matters 😅. I have suggested 8A+, based on the effort it took me, the beta I found, and other boulders of similar difficulty I have tried. Other people may have a different opinion, and that's fair! I am buzzing with excitement and pride because I found the line, cleaned it, tried it and eventually climbed it after a few ups and downs. So the the grade becomes less important to me.
How can you explain that you are peaking at age 37?
I hope I have not peaked yet! Still got things to do. 😉Jokes aside, I think there are many components here. One, I'm still psyched! Second, I have the freedom to make training a priority. Third, I am fighting less with myself now than what I used to do. Working on my own mind, and learning to enjoy the ride more than the send has been liberating, and it is much easier to access full power.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Catatonica 8A+ by Mie Kastet (38)
Mie Kastet has done Catatonica (8A+) in Brione. "Love this problem! Appearance can be deceptive. It packs a punch! Not too experienced with these grades, so I'm…
Catatonica 8A+ by Mie Kastet (38)
Mie Kastet has done Catatonica (8A+) in Brione. "Love this problem! Appearance can be deceptive. It packs a punch! Not too experienced with these grades, so I'm…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…