15 December 2016

What to expect from the Olympic race

Having talked to several of the best competition climbers and some coaches, you can understand that there are a lot of things going on in IFSC. 8a has also sent our format and qualification ideas and this is how Jerome Meyer from IFSC answered. "For example, the issues with new format, such as the duel, is that they represent a very high risk since not mastered as the current format are after so many years. Quite often in our different tests (yes we did some already) the advantages these new formats were bringing could also be attained by changing a little bit the existing format. However as said itโ€™s still a work in progress." Here is a list of some speculations on what to expect from the Olympic race, based on the assumption that IFSC will move away from the fixed Speed route, which is the most crucial obstacle. How the format and qualification will be run in detail is of much less importance. 1. Most of the best Lead and Boulder competitors will run for the Olympics but they will be joined by very few Speed climbers. 2. Almost all of the best juniors will start competing in Combined in Youth Worlds. 3. The non-climbing media hype will start during the Youth Olympics in Buenos Aires in October 2018. 4. The competition scene outside Europe will grow the most. 5. By 2020, there will be 33% more walls and climbers as compared to 2015. 6. Europeans will dominate Youth Olympics in 2018. 7. Shiraishi and Ondra will get the Olympic golds. 8. There will be four set up medals in 2024.
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