
6 April 2016
We need to provide the non-climbing media with up-to-date world records
Andreaw Bisharat has written a grade article with reference to 8a, which starts with the question: "When Grades Change, Should the Record Books Change, Too??"
Of course it should and it is the media who have the responsibility to present as accurate grades as possible. Action Direct was first given 8c+/9a but in the history book of climbing it is considered as the world's first 9a even if that might be replaced by Ben Moon's Hubble.
Non-climbing media will get more and more interested in the climbing world records and surely we have to give them our best knowledge even if it does not mean facts. As an example, even in climbing media it is said that Chris Sharma put up the first ever 9a+ with Realization and that Ashima Shiraishi did the first female 9a+ by Open Your Mind Direct.
Clearly, the non-climbing media is not interested in hearing the whole story and how grading works and getting all the question marks. They are just interested in presenting the world records based on the best knowledge possible and in this case, Sharma's and Shiraishi's great ascents should not be considered as 9a+'s world records.
If 8a were to be asked by the non-climbing media which are the 9a+ world records, we would answer: No female has yet done a 9a+ and the first ever 9a+ was done by Alex Huber in 1996 by Open Air in Schleier Wasserfall. OK, some would say Fred Rouhling's 9b Akira from 1995 but 8a thinks that this falls out of the definition of a route.
Surely, in few years, we might return to the opinion that Sharma and Shiraishi's 9a+'s were the first ever but as it stands now, and what should be presented to the non-climbing media, is that no female has done a 9a+ and that Huber was first.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


