24 September 2020
Vuelo a ciegas 8b by Geila Macia (12)
Geila Macia, daughter to famous Spanish climbers Berta Martin and Israel Gacia, has done Aribaba 8a in Montserrat, (c) Israel, as well as her first 8b, Vuelo a ciegas in Totxo del Macana. Interestingly, it was put up in 1986 as the first 8b in Spain. Berta did it ten years ago and comments,
"It is a short and explosive route with a decisive dynamic move at the beginning from two-finger-pockets. Last autumn Geila tried it once and then we went to Hueco Tanks for three weeks, where she did three 7C's. Once we returned she tried it again but then there was the lockdown and we just trained a lot at home. It was the only thing we could do...train. During the summer we focused on easier routes in Montserrat where she also did 8a and 8a+. On September 12th Geila did Arribaba, a very explosive and resistant 8a and we saw that she was very fit she returned to the 8b.
Geila was extremely motivated to go to the project because she was determined to do the dynamic move. The rest of the route is more controlled moves but requires a lot of precision on feet, and there are a couple of more controlled dynamics but she had them well-rehearsed. Many failed tries but her motivation never gave up. Eventually, she coordinated the dyno very well with the movement of feet and hips and went to the anchor... with determination and enjoying the moment."
"It is a short and explosive route with a decisive dynamic move at the beginning from two-finger-pockets. Last autumn Geila tried it once and then we went to Hueco Tanks for three weeks, where she did three 7C's. Once we returned she tried it again but then there was the lockdown and we just trained a lot at home. It was the only thing we could do...train. During the summer we focused on easier routes in Montserrat where she also did 8a and 8a+. On September 12th Geila did Arribaba, a very explosive and resistant 8a and we saw that she was very fit she returned to the 8b.
Geila was extremely motivated to go to the project because she was determined to do the dynamic move. The rest of the route is more controlled moves but requires a lot of precision on feet, and there are a couple of more controlled dynamics but she had them well-rehearsed. Many failed tries but her motivation never gave up. Eventually, she coordinated the dyno very well with the movement of feet and hips and went to the anchor... with determination and enjoying the moment."
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