
9 February 2017
Vihar utรกn รฉrett be a cseresznye! 9b FA รditรณl
Adam Ondra megnyitotta szerda dรฉlutรกn a mรกsodik legnehezebbnek szรกmรญtรณ utat az Oliana-i รกthajlรกsrengetegben: Mamichula 9b." Ez egy รถsszekรถtรฉse a Papichulo รฉs a Pachamama 9a+ utaknak. Ez a legjobb rรฉszeit tartalmazza mindegyik รบtnak, kihagyja a pihenลket viszont hozzรกrak egy nehรฉz traverzt. ลrรผletes erลรกllรณ mรกszรกs, versenyzลi stรญlusรบ. Hatรกrozottan nehรฉz 9b volt nekem, tรบlsรกgosan durrantรณs."
A nap egy nagy viharral kezdลdรถtt, amire รdรกm azt mondta lehetetlen lett volna mรกszni, de aztรกn kicsit lenyugodott. Bรกr hogy mennyire, azt a megmรกszรณs felvรฉtel is jรณl szemlรฉlteti lentrลl amit a Fanatic Climbing csinรกlt, fลฑszerkรฉnt, egy kis tempรณmรกszรกs, hajlรฉkonysรกg รฉs persze ordรญtรกs mint mindig.
Mik a terveid a versenyekkel kapcsolatban 2017-ben รฉs az Olimpiรกt illetลen?
A terveim kรถzt szerepel, hogy a szezon รถsszes kรถteles vilรกgkupรกjรกn rรฉszt vegyek, รฉs persze Arco-ban, nagyjรกbรณl ennyi. Egyรฉbkรฉnt pedig a fลcรฉl Flatanger.
Nincsenek terveim az Olimpiรกval kapcsolatban, amรญg a formรกtum vรฉgleg el nem dลl. Tรบl korai mรฉg erre gondolni. A vรฉlemรฉnyem a jelenlegi formรกtumrรณl szรฉles kรถrben ismert. Nincs bennem semmilyen รฉrdeklลdรฉs jelenleg a gyorsasรกgira valรณ edzรฉst illetลen, mรฉg mielลtt a formรกtum meg nem lesz erลsรญtve.
Hogy tetszik a 8a รกltal tett javaslat az Olimpiai formรกtumrรณl?
(Az elsล kรถrben mind a hรกrom รกgazatban indulni kellene รฉs a vรฉgรฉn kiszรกmรญtanรกk a Top 8 versenyzลt. A dรถntลben is ismรฉt mindhรกrom szรกmban indulniuk kellene a versenyzลknek รฉs รฉrtelem szerลฑen kiszรกmรญthatรณ lenne kik kapjรกk az รฉrmeket. Vagy akรกr a kรถzรฉpdรถntล รฉs a dรถntล eldลlhetne a Duel stรญlusban. (Duel: kรถteles mรกszรกs รฉs gyorsasรกgi kombinรกciรณja elรถlben.)"
Na ha valamit nem preferรกlok, akkor az a Duel. Igen, alรกรญrom ez rettentลen lรกtvรกnyos รฉs vonzรณ a kรถzรถnsรฉg szรกmรกra. รs a versenyzลknek is ugyanรบgy. De csakis csak addig, amรญg ez poรฉnbรณl megy a versenyeken - mint az Arco-i duel vagy a Deep Water Solo medencรฉs versenyeken Salt Lake City-ben. Ha ez annyira komollyรก vรกlna, hogy harcolni kelljen ezzel az olimpiai รฉrmekรฉrt - az nem lenne tรถbbรฉ รถrรถm a versenyzลknek รฉs a barรกtsรกgos lรฉgkรถr nem lenne tรถbbรฉ.
Tovรกbbรก, ez egyik รกgra sem hasonlรญt igazรกn รฉs sohasem volt az IFSC vilรกgkupa sorozataiban. Csinรกlni egy teljesen รบj dolgot รฉs pont az Olimpiai dรถntลbe? Miรฉrt? Rรกadรกsul ennek semmi kรถze a sziklamรกszรณ tradรญciรณkhoz, ez csak azt mutatja meg, hogy mennyire gyorsan tudsz megmรกszni egy kรถzรฉpnehรฉz utat.
A javaslat tรถbbi rรฉsze igazsรกgossรกg szempontjรกbรณl รฉsszerลฑ, de a hihetetlenรผl nagy nehรฉzsรฉg az idลtartamban รฉs a szervezรฉsben rejlik.
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European Youth Series - Imst
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL
1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
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Ondra does something hard, again...
Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+.
A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโฆ
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8c+ (9a) by Adam Ondra & Bock
Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โฆ
28 September 2008
European Youth Series - Imst
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL
1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS
1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT
Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!
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