Victor Guillermin does Aloha (9a)

Victor Guillermin, who last year won one Euro Youth Cup, has done Aloha (9a) in Kronthal. The 19-year-old, with one 9a+ from 2022 under his belt, just needed one afternoon for the send. (c) Yann Corby - who bolted it in 2006.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
My story in "Aloha" begins four years ago when I tried the 8c that shares the same 7a start. I couldn't do it. I touched the first holds in Aloha but couldn't move at all. Then I forgot about this route. A few weeks ago, I came across some pictures of it taken by Yann Corby, which brought it back to mind. I decided to give it another shot, hoping to be strong enough. I searched everywhere for beta and photos to prepare myself. The route consists of two parts: an 8c traverse leading to a tricky 7C+ crux boulder problem. So this weekend, we headed to Alsace and warmed up under the sun. My first attempt was about testing the moves and finding my beta. I managed all the traverse sequences—it required intense body tension and biceps—but the crux, six powerful moves over the roof lip, shut me down. On my second go, I linked the traverse in two sections but still couldn't do the crux in one. However, I refined my beta: a tricky toe hook, a bad heel over the lip, and a dyno to the final jug.

Piece by piece, I unlocked every move but foolishly skipped trying the last 7a slab... An hour later, exhausted from the two long sessions in the roof, I was still determined to give it a proper try. It felt like a competition—I had only one shot in good conditions at sunset and prepared to give it my all. I knew I had done all the moves, so a perfect run could be enough. Still, it seemed incredibly hard. Then, something clicked. I felt the flow—pure focus took over. With a huge fight, I stuck the crux but remember nothing of it, completely absorbed in the moment. I reached the rest before the final slab, trusting the videos I had watched to guide me through. Every move felt nerve-wracking—I didn’t want to slip, haha. Clipping the anchor was unreal. Just an hour earlier, the route had felt impossible, yet now it was done. It was my first time climbing perfectly outdoors on my first real attempt. Afterward, we captured some great shots for a video.

What is coming up next?
Now, I’m shifting focus to the upcoming World Cups before returning to Alsace for the harder start of Aloha—likely a 9a+! Huge thanks to Yann Corby for his support, photos, and stories!