Viande de Crison 8b+ by Delphine Chenevier (47)

Delphine Chenevier has done Viande de Crison (8b+) inSatan. Previously in 2022, the 47-year-old has done 30 routes 8a to 8b including ten onsights and flashes. In 1999, she was #6 in a Boulder WC. (c) Tata LaCuvette

Could you tell us about your climbing background?
I was on the French climbing team when I was young, I did my first 8b more than 20 years ago. Sometimes I climbed less when I had some intense professional work period but I always keep the motivation and maintain a level in the 8th grade.

How have you managed to climb 8b+ and pull off a PB at age 47?
First of all: the motivation and pleasure to climb and push the limits.
Secondly, being realistic and evolving in a style perhaps more adapted to “my age”: less overhang, more based on finger strength. I trained a lot on finger strength on the mini Moonboard I built in our apartment during the covid, but also on mobility, and climbed outside as much as possible with my professional life. I always prefer to go climbing outside on the rock, in short, after work sessions with friends, with a headlamp as we start late after work, rather than climbing a gym.
Thirdly, this year I had a very severe shoulder injury this spring, and I started working with la Fabrique verticale (Olivier Broussouloux and Laurence Guyon), friends, and great climbing coaches. They coached me and helped me to rapidly be back “to business” and even to come back stronger after the injury. Perhaps you should ask them how to train an old woman 😂😂😂

How much are you training/climbing during the week?
It depends on my professional and family life: on the rock 3x times a week (more generally 1/2 day or sometimes a full day during the weekend + a short after-work evening session) and then one more training session during the week