13 August 2012

Verhoeven: DO NOT change the core of a sport just because the olympics

Jorg Verhoeven, who is one of the best in all disciplines from bouldering to establich multi-pitches on loose terrain in the Alps, won the Lead World Cup in 2008 and also the last event in Imst. In between he have had problems with his back having done only half of the WC's being mainly #5 to #11. Being a fast climber, what do you think about the new Time rule? "I've always said that in difficulty time should NOT be a factor for splitting ties. It's true that I climb fast, so this rule could favor me, but I still strongly disagree. Since I do not work with the IFSC anymore my opinion doesn't matter of course, but if you want to hear: I'm very sad about the current changing in rules, since it affects the competitions more than most people think, and not in a good way. If people want time to count, do either speed or make a new discipline (Duel or Splead) but DO NOT change the core of a sport just because the olympics wouldn't like the chance of a tied first place (there's better options to solve this problem). Deleting the 'Minus' together with this new time rule is like throwing fuel on a burning car, but nobody thought of that prior to changing the rules in spite of an athlete commission and rules commission saying it's a mistake.
3 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…