Use rope drag to work steep routes

Steep routes often involve a dyno where the feet cut loose. This can often be avoided by rope drag, i.e. the belayer stops the swing by not feeding out rope. It is kind of complicated but when it is done correctly, it will facilitate working and doing the move. Trying to work an overhanging route on top rope or even just the crux with the quick draw above clipped in is much more difficult.

Once you have done the hard part and clipped in, it is better to unclip and start from below again. To downclimb, once you have unclipped, is also much easier with some rope drag, i.e. the belayer is pulling the rope. This is very advanced but a good technique that also can be used stripping a steep route from quick draws. The closer to the quick draw the climber has come, the more rope drag can be used. Do, however, make sure that if the climber falls, you stop pulling and instead give a soft fall.

Another tip, in order to place the next quickdraw or reach the next holds, is to temporarily clip the rope into the upper carabiner of your quickdraw and to have a very tight knot. This will make you reach possibly 20 cm further. Another option is to clip in the quickdraw directly into your belay loop, meaning that you possibly can reach the next quickdraw and put in the rope. Note also that there are special stiff 50 cm long quickdraws that could help you reach the next bolt.

Remember also that rope drag on a dyno reducing the swing means that the ascent is not valid, even if it is only the belayers mistake. Sometimes you can actually see pictures and videos of ascents with rope drag.