24 August 2019
Highs in Hachioji 2019
1. Janja Garnbret: Winning three titles just confirms that she is the best ever competition climber in the history. Amazing performance by here.
2. Japanese domination: 50 % of the finalist in the Combined final. Amazingly impressive and there must be few individual sports where we see one country being so much ahead.
3. Japanese Speed progress: Tomoa Narasaki did clock 6.15 which would have taken him to the final in most prior Speed World Cups. Among the best Boulder/Lead climbers the male Japanese totally dominate.
4. Rishat Khaibullin: Last year he was #23 in the Combined doing 6.72 in Speed. He just trains it once a week so he does not match the criteria being a proper "Speed-specialist". In his three Speed WCs in 2019 he has improved from 6.88 - 6.47 - 6.15 and then he did 6.05 in Hachioji Speed followed by 5.83 beating the world champion Ludovico Fossali in the Combined. As a matter of a fact, this was good news for IFSC being a way better overall climber. In his last Lead run, he wisely skipped two clips and continued winning the bronze.
5. Drama especially with Time: As time decides equal hold score in Lead, we see faster climbers and more drama. In the first 6 - 7 seconds Speed run, it is decided whether you will get 1 - 4 or 5 - 8. With the multiplication format this have a massive impact. At the same time, the overall winner is, at least in theory, an open affair until the leader is out in Lead.
5 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


