Unendliche Geschichte 8B+ by Martin Keller, 43

Thursday, 12 November

Martin Keller, famous for his long term solo projecting, has set yet a new standard taking down Unendliche Geschichte 8B+ in Magic Woods after working on it for 16 years. (c) Hannes Kutza

Finishing his work as a teacher in a university in Zurich at 4 pm, he sometimes drives 2.20 h to Magic and starts bouldering at 7 pm. Although he has to wake up at 5.45 am he is normally not back and in bed until 2 am. "Can be 4 or directly to work as well... not recommended though ;) For all kilometres CO2 compensated at least... and commuting to work by train only... at least."

The 43-year-old is also one of the first who started using fans and he is a condition/friction expert often carrying several fans as well as a humidity meter. A separate article is coming up. More info on his Insta and on his Coaching page.

In total, he has done seven 8C's out of which Ninja Skills Sit is his hardest and it has not been repeated. "Ninja is one off the best boulders for sure. An interesting fact is that I managed to close down so many of my nemesis-boulders during the last two years... its cool to see to be able to step up your game with 43 again and keep dreaming about those lines :)"

My “Never Ending Story” started back in November 2004 when I had been able to send “Part 2” for my second 8A-boulder. But the first part of the line with its crazy river polished slopers always had puzzled me. The friction was so poor that I constantly dryfired off somewhere. In 2007 we had a session during a thunderstorm. The holds started to condensate but the friction suddenly had been amazing! It turned out that these polished holds had way better friction when they were totally humid! Something totally new for us! A few thunderstorms later and I had climbed the first part as well and I had started to try to link the two parts. But somehow the first move of the second part kept throwing me off on link. I did go back every year since and came close many times but somehow never managed to stick that move. Eventually, the weather always turned “too dry” and/or I had been sidetracked with other projects!

This spring was different though! Despite approaching my 43rd birthday I was clearly in the best shape of my life as I “suddenly” had been able to send several hard-multi-year-nemesis-projects of mine like “Riot Act, low, 8C’ish” in the Frankenjura , “Ill Trill 8B+” and “New Baseline, 8B+” in Magic Wood. So when the warm and wet conditions had arrived, I was back at “Never Ending Story” and really did stick my nemesis move after a few sessions for the first time ever! The bummer was that I slipped off from the last moves before the top. But I was just super happy to have done that move that had shut me down for the last 13years.

Unfortunately, the conditions got too dry soon after and I started to feel too tired from the long season! I took my usual summer break from bouldering. After that, I worked myself back in shape only to fall off again with totally numb fingers on the last move during an early snowstorm. A few sessions later and another slip off the last moves I finally was able to finish it up! Despite numbing out in the end and therefore overpowering and injuring my ankle while going for the top hold I was able to keep it together and finish off my personal “Never Ending Story”. 16 years after touching this beauty for the first time my dream had come true! But looking back at it the last 16years have been the real dream. So grateful for that journey and its experiences!"

10  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A



Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …