
14 October 2020
Underground 8c+ (9a) by Gio Placci (19)
Gio Placci has done Underground 8c+ (9a) in Arco and amazingly, it was on his 30iest day on. Even on the day before he did two indoor sessions and spent five hours in train and bus to reach Arco. He lives two hours from the nearest crag and he goes always alone to Arco which takes 2.45 hours if he is lucky to commute with a car. Last year he was #8 in a Euro Youth Cup but this year he focused on outdoors and have had a great progress. (c) Sara Grippo
"This year during the lockdown I was able to train very well in my home gym with my little brother. I trained two times all days for about 60 days! Due to the fact that just one comp took place, I could focus on outdoor climbing and I was able to send nine routes from 8c to 8c+. I live far away from Arco but I love this place and almost every weekend I go there to climb." The 19-year-old has just started the University and says that, "For me it doesnโt change so much if I rest or not, mainly only before competitions. Outdoors, I usually set a goal and I rest only for this. For example now Iโm training to do a 9a in Arco, so Iโm waiting the best conditions. Underground was nothing special and the send was very unexpected. I did it just as I was "training" during my third day on it. The first time I got made the first crux I sent it!"
"This year during the lockdown I was able to train very well in my home gym with my little brother. I trained two times all days for about 60 days! Due to the fact that just one comp took place, I could focus on outdoor climbing and I was able to send nine routes from 8c to 8c+. I live far away from Arco but I love this place and almost every weekend I go there to climb." The 19-year-old has just started the University and says that, "For me it doesnโt change so much if I rest or not, mainly only before competitions. Outdoors, I usually set a goal and I rest only for this. For example now Iโm training to do a 9a in Arco, so Iโm waiting the best conditions. Underground was nothing special and the send was very unexpected. I did it just as I was "training" during my third day on it. The first time I got made the first crux I sent it!"
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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