Vertical-Life
Ultra Istinto 9a FA by Pietro Radassao
"Ultra Istinto" is a 40-meter long route that I bolted in the Oratino crag called "La Rocca" in 2020, very close to my home. In December 2020 I climbed the simpler variant "CBD" 8c (bolted by myself the same year) which avoids the final boulder problem exiting at the top right. The route consists of doing all the hard part of "CBD" and at the top after a good rest there is a boulder problem of 8 movements on small holds, in my opinion 8A boulder.
I climbed CBD on 12 December 2020 in a few tries and "Ultra Istinto" after 1 month and a half of work interrupted by even long periods of 1 week of bad weather in which I could not try the route. I am a training fanatic, in the last 5 months I have trained almost every day (140/150 days) and to climb it I did a lot of bouldering, using both tools such as the Moonboard alternating sessions of maximum strength."
In total, Pietro has put up some 100 routes. Out of his 8c's and harder, none have been repeated. Almost all his hardest routes have been established during the last three years, after he started to train much harder. The 25-year-old lives a couple of hours south-east of Rome and has only four times been on climbing trips abroad. The last time was in Spain in 2018.
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