Two 9a's in 3 days for Luis Alfonso Félix

luis alfonso felix himself declares to be on a winning streak since on September 3rd he emulated his friend and co-partner, José Luis Palao 'Primo', in bolting of the line by also sending Seta Total (pic© Javi Pec ). "It's got a hard start, super bouldery with weird shouldery moves and being able to hit a two-finger pocket, then a transit zone with generous holds up to a fake rest which we know as 'los ojitos' ('little eyes'); from here to the chain there's a lot of power-endurance with big and morphological movements between two-finger pockets and crimps and, in the end, a thin headwall, Cuenca style, with a pumpy finish. Most of the route overhanhs around 40º, it's got some 63 moves and, as I said before, two-finger pockets and crimps abound. The hardest thing is to correctly perform the first section so as to not squander too much power and properly rest in 'los ojitos'; that way you have chances to success on the morpho move at the lip." Three days later and also in Cuenca he managed to do the FA of Quassam Mix. He explained us about the route's name and grading: "It's located in Valdecabras Sur, it's next to 'Palestina' 8c+/9a, it shares a little section with 'Vivir en la Ignorancia' 8b+ and then it ends up by a super aesthetic wall by where the original harder line bolted by 'Primo', 'Qassam' 9a/+?, passes. Since we're still trying that original route, we conceived this 'easy' variation which weights in at around 8c+ or 8c+/9a. I'm not sure. That day I was feeling super strong, so future repetitors will confirm it or not. Personally I feel it like 'Palestina'... maybe the question is what grade this later will be left... hahaha. Seriously talking, I feel they are the same grade. Other than that, it's a 5 stars line: super steep at the begining and with a power-endurance slightly overhanging part in the end, with distanced bolts and some air below your feet; all an ode to the 'courage'..." // Ignacio Sandoval Burón.