Train your resting skills to get better endurance

One easy way to get better endurance is to train your resting skill. Having done the crux, reaching a good hold, it is about recovery optimization. Here are some training tips that will increase your chances of sending.

1. Rest first and then clip
A common mistake is, due to you being stressed, you use the last part of your fuel tank to clip. This means that the possibility to get the power back is reduced.

2. Focus on your breathing
Get into that breathing yoga mode as quickly as possible. Focus on long breaths and start counting them.

3. Look down or close your eyes
Relaxing is about doing nothing. Create your resting bubble. Do not look up until you are fully recovered.

4. Use the friction
Hang onto the holds. Sharp edges might be painful to use but they will increase your recovery.

5. Change the positions
Try to find new positions for your feet in order to optimize the resting of all your muscles in your body.

How long to rest and in how long intervals for each hand are depending on the size of the holds, how tired you were from the beginning etc. In general, the intervals should be longer and once you reach 15-20 seconds per hand, there are probably no more gain to get in your forearms. However, being exhausted in your whole body coming to big jugs, you might need to rest for several minutes. From the other perspective, resting optimization is also something that could be done during ten seconds on a bad hold in between two cruxes. This is a very advanced skill that can only be mastered once you know how to rest properly on bigger holds.

Resting can also be done during the second your hand is moving to the next hold. Then we are practically only talking about relaxing the forearm in order to allow some new fresh blood being pumped into your muscles. One way of training this is simply to try to open up your fingers in between holds.