1 June 2022
Top-ropers should unclip as late as possible
I often see and hear belayers telling their not so strong partner to unclip quickdraws way too early while top roping. If this is done on a straight-up vertical route this is of course not a problem and the quickdraws could actually be unclipped by the more experienced climber who put up the top rope.
The problem relates to overhanging or diagonal routes and sequences. As soon as the quickdraw has been unclipped, even the slightest tight rope will drag the climber out or sideways from the position the climber has. And as soon as the climber falls, it just might be hard to get back again and there could be an uncomfortable or even dangerous fall to the side.
Personally, once I see my partner trying to unclip, I almost always tell them not to until they have the quick draw by their hip. I almost always top rope and actually the best thing to do, I think, is to unclip the whole quickdraw from the bolt. By doing so you can wait until it is by your thighs, which makes the process much faster than unclipping the rope from the draw once in a hard sequence.
The problem relates to overhanging or diagonal routes and sequences. As soon as the quickdraw has been unclipped, even the slightest tight rope will drag the climber out or sideways from the position the climber has. And as soon as the climber falls, it just might be hard to get back again and there could be an uncomfortable or even dangerous fall to the side.
Personally, once I see my partner trying to unclip, I almost always tell them not to until they have the quick draw by their hip. I almost always top rope and actually the best thing to do, I think, is to unclip the whole quickdraw from the bolt. By doing so you can wait until it is by your thighs, which makes the process much faster than unclipping the rope from the draw once in a hard sequence.
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