Too many female topps and ties - female route setters needed


Saturday, 17 July

Earlier this week in Chamonix, nine females topped the semifinal route and tonight in Briancon, we saw five female tops. As a matter of a fact one more girl topped out in each event but they were timed out. Too many female tops or tied scores have been a problem for many years for females and one of the reasons for this is the lack of female IFSC route setters.

I have previously many times said that the commentators do a great job but that they lack digital live scoring. Furthermore, they do not focus on who and what is needed to make it to the final. The only Olympian in Briancon, Alberto Gines Lopez, climbed very high and it looked like he was among the best, having secured a spot in the final. 15 seconds later, a ranking is published and the commentator says that Alberto did not make it to the final. He is saved by his sidekick who says he was #4. - Ignore what I just said, Alberto is in the final.

I wanted to give this example in order to say that if not even the commentator understands what is happening live, this is something IFSC must organize quickly, also for the semis. What would be helpful is also that every fifth hold would be marked with a big visual number. Once there are few climbers left, there must be a digital presentation on what is needed to make it to the final. I am afraid I also need to say we saw some bad clipping positions for both the male which in the end had an impact on the results. Lastly, we and the commentators miss a clock on the screen. Alex Totkova topped but was not awarded the top which the commentator initially could not explain.

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