17 July 2021

Too many female topps and ties - female route setters needed

Earlier this week in Chamonix, nine females topped the semifinal route and tonight in Briancon, we saw five female tops. As a matter of a fact one more girl topped out in each event but they were timed out. Too many female tops or tied scores have been a problem for many years for females and one of the reasons for this is the lack of female IFSC route setters.

I have previously many times said that the commentators do a great job but that they lack digital live scoring. Furthermore, they do not focus on who and what is needed to make it to the final. The only Olympian in Briancon, Alberto Gines Lopez, climbed very high and it looked like he was among the best, having secured a spot in the final. 15 seconds later, a ranking is published and the commentator says that Alberto did not make it to the final. He is saved by his sidekick who says he was #4. - Ignore what I just said, Alberto is in the final.

I wanted to give this example in order to say that if not even the commentator understands what is happening live, this is something IFSC must organize quickly, also for the semis. What would be helpful is also that every fifth hold would be marked with a big visual number. Once there are few climbers left, there must be a digital presentation on what is needed to make it to the final. I am afraid I also need to say we saw some bad clipping positions for both the male which in the end had an impact on the results. Lastly, we and the commentators miss a clock on the screen. Alex Totkova topped but was not awarded the top which the commentator initially could not explain.
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…